Angel  &  Alcatraz  Island 


Copyright  1S88  by  C.  P.  Heiainger. 


Cliff  House  &  Seal  Rocks 


SCAT     ISLAND. 


Panoramic  view  of  S 


1 


Castellated  Wall,  Sutro  Rights  near  Cliff  House 


PALACE     NOTEl 


n  Francisco.    1888. 


Copyright. 


Fort  Point  &  Golden  Gate. 


Copyright. 


United  States  Fort. 
Alcatraz  Island,  San  Francisco  Bay. 


Palace  Hotel. 


Montgomery  St. 


ANT  ANNS  BUILDING,. 


Baldwin  Hotel. 


California  Street,   West  from  Sansome  St. 


PALACE     MOTEL. 


Market  Street   East   from  Third 


Market  St.  Cable  Line  Junction  of  Me.  Allister  St. 


Lotto  Fountain. 

Kearny  Street,  North  from  Market  Street. 


United  States  Branch  Mint  5th-    &  Mission  St. 


FRUHOSCO    MT/MBLMIM. 


Telegraph  Hill  &  Observatory. 


Pacific  Ocean  &  Cliffhonso. 


SOLDEN     SATE. 


Park  Beach  &  Cliff  House  Railway. 


Woodward's  Garden. 


New  edition. 


Mission  Dolores,  Dedicated   1776. 


St.  Ignatius  Church  &  College  Hayes  St.  &  Van  Ness  Ave. 


Odd  Fellows  Hall.   7th-  &  Market  Str 


German  Hospital   14™-   &  Noe  st. 


Merchants'  Exchange. 
California  St.   below  Montgomery. 


Safe  Deposit  Block. 
Cor  California  &  Montgomery  St. 


San  Francisco  Stock  Exchange. 
~Pine  St    below  Montgomery. 


Nevada  Block. 
Cor  Pine  &  Montgomery  St. 


Residence  of  Hon  Leland  Stanford.  President  Southern  Pacific  R.  R. 


Residence  of  Chas  Crocker  Esq.  Vice    President  Southern.   Pacific  R  R.. 


•«• 


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GIFT  OF 

Montana  Historical 
Society 


Cflli 


i With  Views  of  Prominent  Buildings,  the  Bay,  Its  Islands, 
Fortifications,  EtCt 


C.  P. 


SAN  FRANCISCO,  GAL. 


1889. 


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A  C 


In  connection  with  my  choice  selection  of  views  contained  in  this  Album 
of  the  City  of  San  Francisco,  the  following  historical  and  other  information 
has  been  carefully  compiled,  from  the  most  authentic  sources.  I  have  been 
ably  assisted  by  some  of  the  Pioneers  of  this  State,  with  whom  I  am  cbsely 
associated,  and  it  has  enabled  me  to  present  to  the  public  a  complete  sb 
the  most  important  events,  from  the  early  settlement  to  the  present  time, 
together  with  Historical  Data,  Review  of  the  City,  Commercial,  Manufacturing 
and  Financial  Statistics,  Improvements,  and  salient  features. 

With  these  remarks  of  explanation  it  is  committed  to  the  press,  relying 
upon  its  merits  and  the  judgment  of  the  public  for  its  success. 

C.  P.  HEININGEE, 

Publisher  of  View  Albums,  Historical  References,  and  Guides  of  all  Principal  Points  on 
the  Pacific  Coast. 

Copyright  by  publisher. 


© 


RETROSPECTIVE. 


SAN  FRANCISCO,  the  metropolis  of  the  Pacific  Coast,  the  ninth  city  in  population  of  the 
United  States,  is  the  youngest,  and  in  many  respects  the  most  remarkable. 

It  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  western  shores  of  the  bay,  whence  it  derives  its  name, 
and  at  the  base  of  high  hills  gently  inclining  towards  the  bay.  The  city  is  six  miles  in  width, 
about  seven  miles  in  lengthj  with  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west,  Golden  Gate,  and  entrance  to 
the  bay  on  the  northwest,  the  bay  on  the  north  and  east,  and  San  Mateo  County  on  the  South. 
The  streets  are  regularly  laid  out,  mainly  crossing  one  another  at  right  angles.  As  will  be  seen 
rom  the  historical  review  herein  contained,  San  Francisco,  from  a  small  and  semi-barbarous 
settlement,  has,  with  the  progress  of  time,  developed  into  one  of  the  wealthiest  and  most 
promising  cities  of  America.  Its  rapid  growth  is  without  a  parallel;  surviving  the  losses  by  its 
great  fires,  earthquakes,  real  estate  panics,  mining  stock  gambling,  riots,  Chinese  agitation,  etc., 
it  has  continued  to  iucrease  in  population,  and  is  to-day  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the 
Pacific  Coast.  For  style  and  elegance  of  architecture,  San  Francisco  is  not  surpassed  by  any  of 
her  sister  cities  of  the  Union,  and  in  many  respects  she  is  the  rival  of  many  of  the  largest.  The 
Palace  and  Baldwin  hotels,  and  Market  street,  Van  Ness  avenue,  California  street,  Montgomery 
street,  with  their  elegant  business  and  private  houses  are  unsurpassed.  Art  and  the  sciences 
thrive  in  San  Francisco,  and  it  is  the  center  of  vast  wealth,  civilization  and  refinement,  and 
the  residence  of  many  millionaires,  occupying  fine  mansions,  principally  on  California  street, 
commanding  a  view  of  the  surrounding  country,  the  ocean  and  bay.  It  is  the  pioneer  city  of  the 
world  in  the  use  of  the  street  cable  railroads.  Attention  is  called  to  the  view  herein  of  this  city 
in  1847,  showing  at  a  glance  the  vast  amount  of  improvement  iu  the  short  space  of  time  interven- 
ing. /It  will  be  noticed  that  the  bay  extended  above  Montgomery  street,  but  the  mud  flats, 
which  then  included  the  present  water  front,  have  been  filled  in.  Large  vessels  anchored  where 
the  business  portion  of  the  city  now  stands.  Now  paved  streets  and  some  of  the  largest  manu- 
facturing establishments  occupy  that  territory. 


834858 


HISTORICAL. 


vUbe  youngest.of  America's  Great  Cities,  has  a  history,  which,  though  brief 
in  its  donrse»b/  y ears „  is  a  suctJessioja  of  rapidly  occurring  incidents  threading  the  romantic  and 
marvelous,  where  the  staid  commonplace  of  other  lands  seldom  appears. 

San  Francisco  in  connection  with  California,  being  so  interwoven  with  Mexico  and  Spain, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  give  a  brief  sketch  of  its  history  from  the  early  times  of  its  discovery  to 
the  present  date,  in  order  to  clearly  understand  what  led  to  the  annexation  of  this  great  State  to 
the  republic. 

The  date  of  settlement  or  founding  of  San  Francisco,  may  be  claimed  when  the  site  of  the 
Mission  was  first  selected  by  Portala  and  Crespi,  in  1769,  under  their  leader,  Junipero  Serra,  the 
Great  Father  of  the  Missions  of  Lower  California,  or  when  the  Mission  and  Presidio  were 
established,  1776,  calling  the  place  Yerba  Buena,  although  the  numerous  late  discoveries  of 
fossil  human  bones  and  works  of  rude  art,  in  stratas  of  gravel  and  sand  which  had  not  been 
disturbed  for  hundreds  of  years,  prove  conclusively  that  California  had  been  inhabited  by  men 
for  many  ages  before  its  discovery  by  Cabrillo,  in  1542.  The  Indians  of  this  coast  have  no 
records,  nor  have  any  of  their  early  traditions  been  preserved,  so  we  do  not  know  anything  of 
them  previous  to  the  first  visit  of  the  Spanish  navigator.  The  earliest  accounts  given  of  the 
Indians  about  San  Francisco  Bay,  show  that  most  of  them  remained  until  long  after  the  Mission 
was  established.  All  of  these  were  found  among  the  tribes  living  in  the  western  and  southern 
part  of  the  continent,  and  the  nearest  islands  to  the  ocean,  but  none  of  them  existed  in  the 
central  basin  of  California  or  the  valleys  opening  into  San  Francisco  Bay. 

Spain  conquered  Mexico  in  1519,  and  Peru  in  1532.  The  prizes  taken  were  so  great,  that  the 
Spanish  adventurers  in  the  New  World  were  full  of  hopes  that  more  such  kingdoms  might 
be  found  and  plundered.  They  looked  to  the  northwest  coast  oi  America  as  a  possible  seat  of  a 
wealthy  empire,  and  they  made  great  exertions  to  find  it.  When  Cortez  went  to  the  court  of 
Charles  V,  in  1528,  he  was  received  with  distinguished  honor,  and  rewarded  for  his  services  to 
the  Empire  with  many  concessions  then  considered  important.  Among  them  was,  that  he  might 
conquer  at  his  own  expense,  any  countries  northwest  of  Mexico,  annex  them  to  the  Spanish 
crown,  keep  for  himself  one-twelfth  of  the  precious  metals  and  pearls,  and  retain  the  perpetual 
vice-royalty  for  himself  and  male  heirs.  Soon  after  he  returned  to  Mexico  and  began  to  make 
preparations  for  his  new  expedition  of  conquest,  but  various  obstacles  arose,  and  he  did  not  get  to 
sea  until  1535.  At  last  he  found  nothing  save  the  peninsula  of  Lower  California,  which  was  so 
barren  that  he  soon  abandoned  the  hope  of  finding  anything  there,  and  many  difficulties 
prevented  him  from  going  further.  He  returned  to  Mexico  in  1537.  He  then  learned  that  during 
his  absence,  two  Spaniards  who  had  landed  with  De  Soto,  ten  years  before  in  Florida,  had 
crossed  the  continent  and  reached  Culiacan,  bringing  with  them  the  report  of  a  rich  and  ex- 
tensive empire  in  the  northwest.  Their  story  corresponded  so  well  with  the  greedy  hopes  and 
ambitions  of  the  Spaniards,  that  it  found  ready  faith,  and  stimulated  the  desire  to  find  another 


t    5    ] 

prize  like  Mexico.  That  led  to  the  discovery  of  California  by  an  expedition  sent  out  In  1542, 
under  Jose  Cabrillo,  who  did  not  see  any  sign  of  San  Francisco  bay,  though  he  sailed  north  of 
latitude  44°.  The  name  of  California  was  first  used  in  an  obscure  Spanish  romance,  and  there 
applied  to  an  imaginary  land  lying  northwest,  as  known  when  books  were  published.  Soon 
after  the  conquest  of  Mexico,  as  known  geographically,  California  meant  nothing  but  what  has 
been  called  Lower  California  since  1769.  In  1579,  Sir  Francis  Drake,  an  English  navigator,  who 
had  been  out  plundering  Spanish  ships  and  towns  on  the  western  coast,  determined  to  try  to 
return  to  England  by  the  passage  supposed  to  exist  in  an  open  sea  north  of  the  American  continent 
While  sailing  toward  the  South  Pacific  and  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  on  the  17th  of  June,  he 
entered  a  bay  behind  Point  Reyes,  within  latitude  38%  to  which  is  given  the  name  of  Drake's 
bay,  while  the  great  bay,  San  Francisco,  is  just  thirteen  minutes  further  south. 

In  1595  the  "San  Augustin,"  under  command  of  Captain  Cemeron,  was  sent  from  Manila 
to  examine  the  coast  of  California,  but  was  wrecked  in  Drake's  bay,  then  known  as  San  Francisco 
bay.  The  party  escaped  and  returned  to  Mexico.  The  pilot  occupied  the  same  positition  seven 
years  later  in  the  exploring  expedition  of  two  vessels  sent  out  from  Acapulco,  under  command  ol 
Sebastian  Vizcaino,  who,  after  touching  at  San  Diego  and  Monterey,  also  entered  Drake's  bay, 
which  the  pilot  recognized  as  the  place  where  they  had  been  wrecked.  The  description  ol 
Drake's  bay,  as  given  in  the  account  of  this  voyage  in  the  history  of  California  by  Vizcaino, 
written  in  1787,  calls  it  the  port  of  San  Francisco,  and  there  is  no  knowledge  or  suspicion  of  a 
larger  or  better  harbor  within  a  few  miles.  Vizcaino  did  not  land, — only  spent  one  night,  and 
continued  his  voyage  to  the  northward,  and  finding  nothing  of  interest  in  the  history  of  Cali- 
fornia, he  returned.  No  further  attempt  was  made  to  explore  the  coast  until  1769,  when  the 
expulsion  of  the  Jesuits  was  ordered  from  Mexico,  in  1767.  The  Franciscan  friars  were  instructed 
to  take  possession  of  the  Jesuit  Missions  in  peninsular  California,  and  to  establish  which  they 
should  protect  the  country  further  north  against  seizure  by  the  English  or  French,  while  the 
peninsula  was  designated  as  Old  or  Lower  California. 

The  best  known  ports  were  San  Diego  and  Monterey,  which  were  selected  as  sites  for  the 
first  Missions  to  be  established.  The  superior  of  the  convent  selected  Junlpero  Serra  to  be  the 
head  of  the  friars  in  California, 

Junipero  Serra  was  a  typical  Franciscan,  a  man  to  whom  his  religion  was  everything.  All 
his  actions  were  governed  by  the  ever-present  and  predominant  idea  that  life  is  a  brief  probation . 
The  earth  for  its  own  sake,  had  no  joys  for  him;  his  soul  did  not  recognize  this  life  as  its  home. 
He  turned  with  dislike  from  nearly  all  those  sources  of  pleasure  in  which  the  society  of  our  age 
delights.  It  was  not  enough  for  him  to  abstain  from  pleasure,  he  considered  it  his  duty  to 
inflict  upon  himself  bitter  pain;  he  ate  little,  avoided  meat  and  wine,  often  lashed  himself 
with  ropes  and  beat  himself  with  stones,  and  at  times  put  a  burning  torch  to  bis  breast-. 
These  things  he  did  while  preaching  or  at  the  close  of  his  sermons,  his  purpose  being,  as  his 
biographer  says,  not  only  to  punish  himself,  but  also  to  move  his  auditory  to  penitence  for 
their  own  sins. 

The  arrangements  having  been  completed,  two  expedition s  were  sent  out  by  sea,  and  two 
by  land,  to  San  Diego,  sailing  from  Cape  St.  Lucas  on  the  llth  of  January,  1769,  and  did  not 


reach  their  destination  until  the  llth  of  April,  on  which  day  the  permanent  occupation  of 
California  by  white  men  began.  Not  much  time  was  lost  in  idleness;  preparations  for  active 
worfc  were  made,  and  on  the  llth  of  July,  the  Mission  of  Sun  Diego  was  founded,  and  Father 
Junipero  made  a  formal  declaration  that  the  site  had  been  chosen  for  an  establishment  where 
the  savages  of  New  California  should  learn  the  doctrines  of  Christianity,  and  the  road  to  salva- 
tion. The  occupation  of  Monterey  having  been  one  of  the  most  important  objects  of  the 
expedition,  Portala  set  forth  on  the  14th  of  July,  by  land,  with  friars  Juan  Crespi  and  Gomez, 
fifty-five  white  men  and  Indians  to  find  the  port.  When  Crespi  and  Portala  on  their  northward 
march  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Salinas  River,  they  looked  for  the  harbor  of  Monterey,  but  saw 
no  secure  anchorage,  and  presuming  that  either  there  had  been  a  mistake  in  the  latitude  as 
mentioned  in  the  books,  or  that  the  port  had  been  filled  up  by  sand  in  the  century  and  a  half 
since  Vizcaino  had  examined  the  bay,  they  went  northward  in  search  of  it,  passing  along  the 
coast  for  several  days  after  leaving  the  looked  for  harbor.  They  then  crossed  the  mountains  to 
the  western  side  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  on  the  Tin  of  November,  reached  the  end  of  the 
peninsula,  and  discovered  the  Golden  Gate.  The  diary  of  friar  Crespi  contains  the  first  distinct 
mention  of  the  great  bay,  and  with  most  authorities  he  has  the  credit  of  the  discovery.  The 
Spanish  explorers  did  not  imagine  that  they  had  made  a  discovery.  They  saw  that  the 
harbor  was  different  from  that  of  Monterey,  described  by  Vizcaino,  but  they  imagined  it  was 
the  bay  of  San  Francisco  mentioned  by  their  navigators  as  lying  under  shelter  of  Point  Reyes. 
Friar  Crespi,  who  may  be  considered  the  head  of  the  expedition,  not  knowing  that  he  had 
made  a  discovery,  did  on  the  7th  of  November,  1769,  discover  the  site  and  harbor  of  San 
Francisco,  and  gave  it  the  name  it  now  bears.  As  soon  as  Crespi  reported  that  he  had  found  an 
extensive  and  apparently  deep  bay,  the  idea  arose  that  the  bay  and  its  vicinity  were  destined  to 
play  an  important  part  in  the  future  of  California. 

Although  the  friars  had  difficulties  in  maintaining  the  Missions  already  established,  and 
keeping  up  a  connection  between  them,  they  were  anxious  for  another  near  the  new  harbor,  but 
the  purpose  was  not  carried  into  effect  until  seven  years  later.  The  maintenance  of  San  Diego 
having  been  secured,  it  was  determined  that  another  attempt  should  be  made  to  find  Monterey. 
On  the  16 th  of  April,  a  party  set  out  by  land,  and  the  next  day  the  San  Antonio  sailed  with 
Father  Junipero  on  board.  The  land  party  reached  the  bay  on  the  24th  of  May,  and  the  barque 
on  the  31st.  The  port  was  found  precisely  as  described  by  Vizcaino  one  hundred  and  sixty- 
seven  years  before.  On  the  3d  of  June,  1770,  the  Mission  of  San  Carlos  and  the  fort  of  Monterey 
were  founded,  and  a  formal  declaration  was  made,  that  possession  had  been  taken  of  the 
country  in  the  name  of  the  King  of  Spain.  The  Indians  did  not  approach  the  Spaniards  for 
several  days,  having  been  frightened  by  the  discharge  of  artillery  and  musketry,  but  they  soon 
recovered  from  their  fears,  and  from  that  time  forward  were  very  friendly  with  the  whites.  The 
first  savage  was  baptized  on  the  26th  of  December.  The  news  of  the  establishment  of  the 
Mission  and  fort  at  Monterey  reached  the  city  of  Mexico  the  10th  of  August,  1770.  The  viceroy 
considered  the  fact  so  important  that  he  ordered  all  the  church  bells  to  ring  in  rejoicing. 

When  the  time  was  approaching  for  other  Missions  to  be  established,  an  exploring 
expedition  was  sent  from  Monterey  in  March,  1772,  under  friar  Crespi.  Instead  of  passing 
west  of  the  bay,  as  in  1769,  they  took  an  eastern  course,  and  on  the  26th  of  March,  passed 


the  present  sight  of  Oakland,  and  four  days  later,  after  going  through  Napa  and  Sonoma 
Valleys,  reached  Russian  River,  and  from  a  hill  near  Carquinetf  straits,  saw  the  Sacramento  and 
San  Joaquin  Valleys,  thus  observing  the  most  fertile  and  beautiful  portions  of  California  on  the 
journey.  The  next  time  the  great  bay  was  seen  was  December  4th,  1774,  when  friar  Palou, 
with  a  military  escort,  reached  the  end  of  our  peninsula,  and  then  returned  to  Monterey  with 
reports  confirming  those  made  in  1789  and  1772,  by  Crespi.  In  1774  the  land  route  was  opened 
between  Sonora  and  California,  by  orders  of  the  viceroy  of  Hermosillo,  and  ordering  colonists  j 
mostly  married  men,  to  settle  at  the  projected  Missions  at  Santa  Clara  and  San  Francisco- 
This  order  was  brought  to  Monterey  in  June,  1775,  by  the  packet  San  Carlos,  under  command 
of  Lieutenant  Ayolo,  who  was  instructed  to  survey  the  great  bay,  which  no  vessel  had  yet 
visited.  He  departed  and  entered  the  Golden  Gate  on  the  night  of  August  18th,  spent  forty 
days  in  the  bay,  and  returned  to  Monterey  on  the  22nd  of  September,  and  assured  Father 
Junipero  that  it  was  not  a  harbor,  but  a  multitude  of  harbors.  Another  expedition  was 
sent  to  San  Francisco  from  Monterey  in  March,  and  on  the  22d  of  the  month  the  sites  of  the 
projected  Mission  and  Presidio  were  selected.  All  the  preliminaries  having  been  arranged,  the 
train  of  founders  left  Monterey  on  the  16th  of  June,  1766,  under  friars  Palou  and  Cambon. 
They  reached  the  site  ^of  the  present  Mission  on  the  27th.  After  spending  the  night  there, 
they  moved  on  to  the  Presidio,  which  was  to  be  the  home  of  all  save  the  friars.  From  this 
beginning  arose  the  permanent  settlement  by  white  men,  of  what  is  now  San  Francisco,  the 
outlet  of  the  great  valleys  of  Central  California.  Work  was  at  once  commenced  on  buildings, 
and  they  were  ready  for  occupation  on  the  17th  of  September.  The  occasion  was  not  to  pass 
without  some  public  ceremony:  Palou  blessed  the  establishment,  celebrated  a  mass,  elevated 
and  adorned  the  holy  cross  and  chanted  a  Te  Deum,  after  which  commandant  Moraga  took 
posession  in  the  name  of  his  royal  master,  the  King  of  Spain,  followed  by  salutes  from  the 
dragoons  and  artillerymen. 

Rivera,  who  was  acting  Governor  of  Upper  California,  had  given  orders  that  the  Mission 
of  San  Francisco  should  not  be  founded  until  instructions  were  received  from  him,  and  as 
they  had  not  arrived,  Moraga  went  off  to  explore  the  rivers  emptying  into  Suisun  Bay,  but  after 
crossing  the  San  Joaquin  river,  he  found  that  the  country  was  too  extensive  for  his  brief  stay  and 
supplies.  He  returned  to  San  Francisco  on  the  7th  of  October;  so  this  was  all  that  was  known 
of  the  great  valley  of  Central  California. 

Nothing  had  been  heard  of  Rivera,  and  the  friars  were  impatient  to  dedicate  their  Mission, 
so  Moraga  authorized  them  to  prepare  for  the  dedication  the  next  day,  which  they  did,  being 
the  8th  of  October,  1776.  The  first  Indian  was  baptized  Dec.  27th.  The  same  year  other 
Missions  were  established  at  San  Rafael,  Sonoma,  Santa  Clara,  and  other  points  along  the 
Coast  Range. 

Until  the  year  1815,  the  Mission  produced  little  that  had  any  saleable  value.  The  only  vessels 
admitted  into  ihe  ports  of  the  country  for  trading  purposes  belonged  to  Spain,  and  they  were 
so  slow  and  badly  managed  that  the  freight  left  no  margin  in  exportation.  It  was  not  until 
after  the  independence  of  Mexico  had  been  established  that  exportation  of  hides  and  tallow 
became  an  extensive  business,  in  1822. 


[     8     1 

The  Mexican  Congress,  assuming  that  the  people  were  competent  to  maintain  an  orderly 
republican  government,  and  believing  that  the  mission  Indians  of  California,  most  of  whom 
had  been  born  under  the  dominion,  and  bred  under  the  instructions  of  the  friars,  must  be 
competent  for  the  duties  of  civilized  life  and  equal  political  privileges,  on  the  17th  of  August, 
1833,  passed  a  bill  announcing  that  the  government  would  proceed  to  secularize  the  missions 
of  Upper  and  Lower  California.  The  matter  was  thus  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  executive 
department,  and  on  August  9th,  1834,  Governor  Figueroa,  of  California,  acting  under  instructions 
of  the  Republic,  issued  a  decree  that  he  would  in  August,  1835,  convert  ten  of  the  missions  into 
towns,  and  the  friars  of  the  missions  were  to  be  deprived  of  all  control,  which  he  placed  in 
charge  of  the  administrator,  who  should  give  every  male  Indian  a  tract  of  twenty-eight  acres  and 
a  fair  share  of  the  domestic  animals  and  tools.  Qumecindo  Flores  was  appointed  administrator, 
but  between  the  time  of  the  announcement  that  the  secularization  would  be  made,  most  of  the 
cattle  were  driven  off,  the  Indians  left  without  control,  and  soon  there  was  nothing  to  divide 
and  none  to  receive  the  dividends,  and  cultivation  was  neglected.  The  Indians  instead  of  prov- 
ing their  capacity  to  become  independent  and  prosperous  citizens,  wasted  what  little  property 
was  given  to  them,  fell  into  dissolute  habits,  and  went  to  the  mountains  and  ran  wild. 

When  the  friars  were  deprived  of  their  authority  by  order  of  the  secularization  in  1835,  twenty- 
one  missions  were  in  existence,  all  near  the  coast,  from  San  Diego  to  Sonoma,  the  average 
distance  between  each,  fifty  miles.  The  principal  towns  were  Los  Angeles,  Santa  Cruz  and  Santa 
Clara,  and  the  entire  white  population  was  estimated  5,000. 

As  early  as  1833  American  merchant  vessels  made  their  appearance  and  established  trading 
posts  along  the  coast.  Fur  companies  and  whalers  had  become  numerous  by  1820.  During  this 
time  Spain  had  undertaken  to  control  the  fur  trade  and  there  was  a  project  for  opening  trade 
between  California  and  China,  whereby  the  peltries  were  to  be  exchanged  for  quicksilver,  and 
the  trade  to  be  made  a  government  monopoly.  The  project  failed,  and  the  Spanish  conceded  the 
rights  to  private  individuals  to  carry  on  the  trade.  During  this  period  the  missionaries  had  such 
control  of  California  that  they  excluded  as  free  settlers  the  few  who  desired  to  remain  in  the 
territory  beyond  the  missions. 

The  religious  spirit  of  the  time,  even  to  a  later  date  in  the  eighteenth  century  still  governing 
the  Spanish  people,  prompted  its  devotees  to  penetrate  the  wild  regions  of  the  new  world,  to 
spread  the  doctrines  of  the  Church,  and  gather  the  heathen  under  its  care,  rather  than  enlarge 
the  sphere  of  human  liberties,  or  pursue  wealth  by  extending  commerce,  and  developing  the 
resources  of  the  country. 

Under  such  auspices  was  this  State  selected  and  occupied,  thus  giving  in  the  brief  period  of 
a  century,  an  ancient  character  to  its  history,  then  advancing  with  a  bound  as  it  sprang  from 
Mexican  to  American  rule,  from  the  semi-civilized  past  to  the  enlightenment  and  activity  of 
modern  times.  The  peculiar  features  of  the  State  were  not  obliterated  by  the  change^  Ancient 
and  simple  as  was  its  origin,  it  has  become  the  most  busy  and  cosmopolitan  of  the  age. 

In  the  year  1822,  Mexico  became  independent  of  Spain,  and  hence  California  was  under 
Mexican  rulers  from  1822  to  1846.  The  period  of  Mexican  possession  witnessed  considerable 
increase  in  the  commerce  of  the  territory;  from  1825  to  1834  a  few  Boston  merchants  had  the 
California  trade  wholly  in  their  hands  and  were  followed  by  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  who 


t    9    1 


almost  succeeded  in  monopolizing  the  exports  and  imports.  In  the  winter  of  1835  Jacob  P. 
Leese,  an  American,  the  first  to  settle  on  the  coast,  arrived  at  Los  Angeles  and  engaged  in 
business,  but  did  not  thrive,  and  was  advised  by  shipmasters  to  establish  himself  at  the  Bay  ot 
San  Francisco.  There  was  no  store  or  commission  house  at  the  place,  and  an  American  could 
succeed  better  than  any  other  nationality,  as  the  traders  were  mostly  from  Boston  and  New  York. 
Mr.  Leese  determined  to  follow  the  advice  oi  his  friends,  closed  up  his  business  and  started  for 
Yerba  Buena,  visiting  the  Capital  at  Monterey  on  his  way,  and  arriving  at  Yerba  Buena  found 
no  one  there  except  William  A.  Richardson,  an  Englishman,  who  arrived  on  this  coast  in  1822. 
Mr.  Leese  examined  the  shore  and  satisfied  himself  that  Yerba  Buena  was  the  best  place  for 
settlement;  he  shortly  after  built  the  first  business  establishment  on  Yerba  Buena  Cove,  now 
San  Francisco,  in  July,  1836,  near  the  present  corner  of  Montgomery  and  Sacramento  Streets. 
This  was  the  first  frame  building  of  the  village  erected,  which  he  succeeded  in  finishing  in  time 
to  celebrate  the  4th  of  July  with  a  hundred  or  more  guests,  including  the  rancheros  and  traders 
along  the  shores  of  the  bay.  On  this  occasion  the  American  flag  was  for  the  first  time  to  wave 
over  the  present  site  of  San  Francisco  or  the  State.  This  structure  was  afterward  known  as 
the  House  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  to  whom  Mr.  Leese  sold  it. 

In  April,  1838,  the  first  American  child  was  born  in  this  State,  being  a  daughter  to  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Jacob  Leese,  its  mother  being  a  native  of  the  State. 

In  1839  Captain  John  Vioget,  by  order  oi  Governor  Alvarado,  under  Mexican  rule,  surveyed 
the  town  into  streets,  though  without  naming  them.  This  was  the  nucleus  of  the  present  city. 
Then  its  boundaries  were  the  bay,  flowing  to  Montgomery  street.  The  surroundings  were  rugged 
hills  and  sand  dunes,  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of  live  oak  shrubs,  and  so  it  continued  until 
the  occupation  by  the  Americans  in  1846. 

In  October,  1841,  about  one  hundred  Americans  arrived  overland  from  New  Mexico. 
Alvarado  fearing  this  accession  of  foreigners,  applied  to  Santa  Ana  for  more  troops.  The  ill 
feeling  between  the  Mexicans  and  foreigners  became  every  day  more  vindictive,  and  in  1845  a 
revolution  broke  out  among  the  Americans.  This  movement  was  known  as  the  Bear  Flag 
Revolution,— the  rude  painted  banner  they  carried  representing  a  grizzly  bear.  This  was  the 
nucleus  of  the  present  city,  and  it  continued  to  increase  until  occupied  by  Americans  in  1846. 

The  war  did  not  break  out  between  Mexico  and  the  United  States  in  earnest  until  May. 

There  was  a  fixed  determination  in  Washington  that  one  of  the  first  things  to  be  done  in 
case  of  war  with  Mexico,  was  to  seize  California.  In  1840  Governor  Alvarado,  who  had  become 
exceedingly  jealous  of  all  foreigners,  pretended  to  have  received  information  of  a  plot  to  over- 
turn the  government.  Castro  was  ordered  to  arrest  all  connected  with  the  conspiracy,  and  by  a 
strategic  movement  succeeded  in  arresting  about  one  hundred,  principly  Americans.  About 
^wenty  of  the  supposed  ring-leaders  were  transferred  in  chains  to  San  Bias.  In  July  the  Ameri- 
can man-of-war,  St.  Louis,  and  a  French  ship  anived  at  Monterey,  demanding  satisfaction, 
Alvarado  was  so  frightened  at  their  arrival  that  he  fled  to  the  interior  and  did  not  return  to  the. 
Capital  until  the  bay  was  clear  again. 

July,  1842,  the  foreigners  arrested  were  returned  on  board  a  vessel  furnished  by  the  Mexican 
government,  which  had  not  approved  of  Alvarado's  uncalled  tor  actions,  They  brought  tho 


news  that  General  Micheltorena  had  been  appointed  to  both  the  civil  and  ^iV-'.ary  commands 
of  California,  He  arrived  at  San  Diego  in  August,  and  was  traveling  nort_ivard  in  grand  style, 
when  intelligence  caused  him  to  stop  suddenly  at  Los  Angeles.  This  was  that  commander 
Jones,  in  command  of  the  frigate,  United  States,  and  Sloop  of  war,  Cyane,  had  takeu  possession 
of  the  country,  and  hoisted  the  Stars  and  Stripes  at  Monterey.  Alvarado  surrendered  on  the 
21st  of  October,  and  California  was  apparently  a  portion  of  the  American  Union. 

The  next  day  Jones  discovered  that  he  had  made  a  mistake,  that  Mexico  was  not  yet  at  war 
with  the  United  States,  and  he  therefore  gracefully  lowered  the  colors  anr>  ^,«,.ogized.  Michel- 
torena then  came  to  Monterey  and  assumed  his  duties,  and  ruled  until  T  ebruary  1st,  1845,  when 
he  was  ousted,  and  Vallejo  was  placed  in  his  stead.  The  year  of  1846  was  a  notable  one  in  the 
annals  of  California. 

On  July  7th,  Commander  Sloat,  who  had  arrived  on  the  United  States  frigate  Savannah, 
a  few  days  previously,  dispaiched  Captain  Mervine  at  the  head  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  men 
on  shore,  to  hoist  the  American  flag  over  Monterey.  On  the  arrival  of  the  news  of  the 
battle  on  the  Rio  Grande,  a  messenger  was  dispatched  to  Captain  Montgomery,  of  the  war 
gloop  Portsmouth,  then  lying  at  Yerba  Buena,  giving  him  the  word  to  hoist  the  flag,  and  on 
the  8th  Montgomery  received  the  dispatch  and  hoisted  the  Stars  and  Stripss.  The  proclamation 
was  read,  and  his  instructions  obeyed  without  resistance  or  objection  from  the  natives.  The 
proclamation  announced  that  henceforth  California  was  a  portion  of  the  United  States,  and 
promised  protection  to  the  persons  and  property  of  peaceable  citizens.  On  the  llth  Montgomery 
dispatched  back  to  Sloat  that  the  flag  waved  at  San  Francisco,  Sonoma,  Bodega  and  New 
Helvetia.  Los  Angeles  and  San  Diego  were  soon  afterwards  taken.  The  American  conquest 
dates  from  the  7th  of  July,  1846. 

The  war  lasted  two  years,  but  there  was  very  little  fighting  in  California,  and  that  did  not 
reach  north  as  far  as  Yerba  Buena.  On  the  31st  of  July,  the  ship  Brooklyn,  from  New  York, 
sailed  into  the  Golden  Gate,  and  the  town  was  agitated  to  see  a  ship  with  decks  black  with 
people,  though  evidently  not  an  American  war  ship,  and  pursuing  her  course  toward  Tcerba 
Buena  Cove.  Captain  Montgomery  made  ready  for  fight,  but  as  the  strange  ship  came  around, 
he  saw  that  his  preparations  were  unnecessary.  The  number  of  women  and  children  on  deck 
proved  that  there  was  no  hostile  intention.  They  carried  the  American  flag,  but  there  was  no 
report  that  an  emigrant  vessel  was  coming,  aud  the  government  surely  would  not  send  out  women 
and  children  to  a  country  engaged  in  war.  Public  curiosity  was  soon  gratified;  the  ship  left 
New  York  February  6th,  with  two  hundred  and  thirty-eight  emigrants;  all  save  twelve  were 
Mormons,  who  under  advice  of  their  church,  had  selected  San  Francisco,  and  under  the 
leadership  of  Samuel  Brannan,  came  to  found  a  new  colony  on  this  western  continent.  Great 
was  their  surprise  when  they  beheld  the  Stars  and  Stripes  waving  over  the  towu  where  they 
expected  to  find  strange  people,  and  hoped  to  found  their  colony  and  church  undisturbed  by  the 
customs  and  laws  of  a  country  they  had  left. 

Mr.  Brannan  being  a  printer,  brought  with  him  his  material  for  an  office,  set  it  up,  and  on 
the  9th  of  January,  1847,  published  the  first  California  weekly,  The  Star,  the  pioneer  paper  of 
the  new  city.  The  name  was  soon  afterwards  changed  to  Alia  California. 


[  11  ] 


In  January,  1847,  Under  the  direction  of  Commander  Montgomery,  the  site  was  re-surveyed, 
and  a  large  city  laid  out,  the  names  of  prominent  men  given  to  its  streets, and  the  name  changed 
from  Yerba  Buena  to  San  Francisco. 

The  next  important  arrival  was  on  the  6th  of  March,  when  the  bark  Thos.  H.  Perking 
came  in  with  the  first  detachment  of  volunteers  from  New  York,  under  command  of  Col.  J. 
D.  Stevenson.  Other  detachments  followed  afterwards,  on  the  barks  Susan  Drew  and  Loo 
Choo,  and  the  young  men  of  which  the  regiments  were  composed,  were  distributed  throughout 
the  country.  With  these,  the  new  city  assumed  a  full  American  aspect,  and  looked  hopefully 
forward  when  the  whaling  fleets  of  the  Northwest  coast  should  rendezvous  in  its  harbor,  and 
the  sturdy  American  farmer  succeed  to  the  unenterprising  rancheros,  and  make  it  the 
center  of  trade.  But  a  fate  was  in  store  far  brighter  than  the  most  vivid  imagination  had  dared 
to  picture. 

The  treaty  of  Quadalupe  Hidalgo,  whereby  Mexico  conceded  to  the  United  States  the  right 
of  possession  of  California,  had  hardly  been  agreed  upon  on  the  19th  of  January,  1848,  when 
James  W.  Marshall  made  the  discovery  of  gold  at  Coloraa,  now  in  Eldorado  county.  The  news, 
which  soon  spread  all  over  the  world,  opened  a  new  era  in  commerce,  and  attracted  all  eyes 
to  the  Pacific  Coast.  About  this  time  Lieutenant  Edward  Gilbert,  of  Stevenson's  regiment, 
took  the  census  of  the  town,  showing  a  population  of  four  hundred  and  fifty-nine,  and  one 
hundred  and  fifty-seven  houses,  fully  one-fourth  adobes,  and  the  remainder  shanties  and  tents 
From  this  date  San  Francisco  may  be  said  to  have  had  its  start. 

With  the  acquisition  of  the  country  it  became  necessary  to  establish  mail  communication 
with  the  Atlantic  States,  and  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship  Co.  was  organized,  aided  with  a 
liberal  contract  by  Congress.  The  route  was  formed  from  New  York  to  Oregon ,  via  Panama, 
San  Francisco  as  a  way  point.  The  discoveries  of  gold  soon  after  changed  the  plans,  and 
this  became  the  principal  port  of  the  line.  ' 

July  28th,  1849.  The  California,  the  first  steamer  of  the  line,  arrived;  since  then  the 
commerce  of  the  city  has  advanced  with  gigantic  strides. 

In  December  a  State  Government  was  organized  by  the  adoption  of  a  Constitution,  and 
election  of  officers,  and  the  State  divided  into  counties.  A  charter  was  granted  to  this  city, 
and  in  May,  1850,  a  Muncipal  Government  went  into  power.  Events  of  importance  now 
followed  each  other  in  rapid  succession,  notwithstanding  the  great  fires  as  early  as  December, 
1849,  clearing  all  the  principal  buildings — the  most  valuable— out  of  sight,  at  a  total  loss  of 
fully  one  million  dollars.  The  second  and  third  great  fires,  on  May  4th  and  June  14th,  1850, 
fell  severely  on  the  merchants,  they  losing  fully  five  millions  of  dollars.  The  ground  burned 
over  was  in  a  few  months  covered  with  better  buildings  than  before,  to  be  swept  away  again. 
The  fourth  fire,  surpassing  all  the  others,  came  on  the  anniversary  of  the  May  fire  of  the 
previous  year,  and  destroyed  property  to  the  value  of  seven  millions  of  dollars.  It  really  com- 
menced on  the  night  of  the  3d,  but  is  called  the  anniversary  fire  of  May  4th,  185U.  It  swept 
away  the  entire  business  portion  of  the  city;  that  included  everything,  for  there  were  very  few 
dwelling  houses  in  those  days.  The  burned  district  was  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long  by  one- 
quarter  mile  wide,  containing  fully  fifteen  hundred  houses,  which  were  all  destroyed.  Many  oi 
them  supposed  to  be  fire  proof,  built  of  brick,  were  unable  to  withstand,  the  great  heat, 


[    12    ] 

.quantities  of  merchandise  were  lost,  and  a  number  of  persons  perished  in  the  flames,  but  how 
many  was  never  known.  The  fifth  and  last  flre,  which  may  be  classed  among  the  great  fires, 
and  did  damage  to  the  extent  of  about  two  million  dollars,  was  on  the  22nd  of  June,  1851. 

These  fires  exercised  great  influence  upon  the  politics  and  trade  of  the  city.  The  amount 
of  property  exposed  in  the  streets  and  lots  was  so  great  that  the  citizens  organized  into  a 
patrol,  or  committee  of  vigilance,  which  soon  extended  its  jurisdiction  into  hanging  murderers, 
as  well  as  protecting  property.  Merchants,  unable  to  secure  their  property  on  hand,  put  their 
goods  into  storeships  in  the  bay,  until  1854,  when  brick  stores— really  flre  proof— began  to 
furnish  room  and  safety  on  shore.  Being  unable  to  make  brick,  or  cut  stone,  except  at  terrific 
prices,  orders  were  sent  abroad  for  incombustible  building  material.  Granite  came  from  China, 
bricks  from  Sidney,  New  York  and  London. 

The  period  of  nearly  six  years  from  the  beginning  of  the  gold  excitement  to  the  end  of  1853, 
was  marked  by  a  steady  and  rapid  increase  in  the  production  and  exportation  of  gold.  In 
these  San  Francisco  rose  suddenly  from  the  condition  of  an  insignificant  village,  in  com- 
merce and  geography,  almost  to  that  of  one  of  the  leading  sea-ports,  with  semi-monthly  steam- 
ship communication,  via  Panama,  with  New  York  and  European  ports.  The  tents  and  shanties 
that  made  up  a  large  part  of  the  city  for  several  years  after  the  gold  discovery,  having  been 
cleared  away  by  the  great  fires,  were  succeeded  by  substantial  brick  buildings,  and  many  acres 
ol  the  bay  were  filled,  to  make  room  for  more.  Everything  that  was  necessary  for  a  metropolitan 
centre  of  business  such  as  warehouses,  wharves,  banks,  large  stocks  of  merchandise,  extensive 
relations  with  distant  markets,  able  newspapers,  as  well  as  the  social  wants,  schools,  theatres, 
libraries,  and  churches,  were  supplied  at  short  notice. 

California,  like  San  Francisco,  rose,  as  if  atone  bound,  from  the  stagnation  of  semi-barbarous 
pastoral  life,  to  the  varied  arts  and  restless  activity  of  a  refined  civilization. 

1853-4 — The  trade  in  Chinese  passenger  carrying  between  Hong  Kong  and  San  Francisco 
began  to  assume  great  importance.  It  is  stated  that  in  1854  every  available  ship  was  eagerly 
chartered  for  the  conveyance  of  these  passengers.  As  high  as  ninety  thousand  dollars  was 
offered  and  paid  for  a  fair,  good  hulk,  and  exhorbitant  prices  were  given  for  crafts  of  all 
descriptions  and  in  all  conditions. 

Early  in  1854  a  severe  panic  occurred  in  mercantile  circles— the  result  of  over  speculation. 
There  was  a  heavy  fall  in  the  rates  of  interest  and  in  the  price  of  merchandise  and  real  estate. 
The  city  had  more  stores  and  warehouses  than  she  could  support,  and  out  of  one  thousand  business 
houses,  in  the  middle  of  the  year,  fully  three  hundred  were  unoccupied,  and  over  two  hundred 
voluntary  bankruptcies  took  place,  each  with  an  average  deficit  of  $40,000.  The  depression 
thus  begun  continued  for  about  two  years. 

In  1855  a  great  deal  of  political  corruption  prevailed  in  the  city,  which  caused  many  crimes 
and  much  bloodshed. 

April,  1856, «  The  Consolidation  Act,"  prepared  by  Horace  Hawes,  was  passed,  giving  the 
city  a  new  charter,  and  consolidating  the  city  and  county  governments  into  one.  The  greater 
portion  of  the  territory  was  formed  into  the  county  of  San  Mateo.  The  Farallones,  Angel, 
Alcatraz  and  Goat  Island  are  included  in  San  Francisco  city  ami  county.  The  laud  area  is  forty- 


two  square  miles.  Under  the  well-guarded  provisions  of  (he  Consolidation  Act,  the  city  has  been 
well  governed  and  protected  from  contracting  indebtedness,  so  that  its  public  finances  are  in  a 
condition  unsurpassed  by  any  city.  In  1859  the  discovery  of  silver  bearing  ores  in  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas  enlarged  the  area  of  this  city  and  gave  it  new  life. 

In  1860-61  the  city  took  a  boom  in  building,  and  during  the  year  1861  it  was  estimated  that 
fully  fifteen  hundred  new  buildings  were  begun  or  completed,  including  many  large  structures, 
such  as  the  Occidental  Hotel,  Russ  House,  Lick  House,  Masonic  Temple,  Churches,  etc.  There 
was  a  noticeable  improvement  in  com  mercial  and  trade  circles,  which  has  continued  to  the  present 
date,  bringing  with  it  extensive  improvements. 

The  severest  earthquake  ever  experienced  in  San  Francisco  was  that  which  occurred  October 
21st,  1868.  Many  buildings  were  badly  damaged,  and  several  people  lost  their  lives  by  falling 
bricks,  etc. 

In  May,  1869,  one  hundred  years  from  the  discovery  of  the  bay  by  Portala,  the  great  Pacific 
Railroad  was  completed,  establishing  connection  wiih  New  York  by  rail.  The  years  1870  to  the 
present  time  show  great  progress  and  prosperity  in  every  direction.  The  rapid  growth  of  the  city, 
with  great  improvements;  with  such  costly  and  mammoth  structures  as  the  Palace  and  Baldwin 
Hotels,  and  many  extensive  business  houses  and  fine  residences,  not  surpassed,  while  manu- 
facturing enterprises  were  not  left  in  the  rear.  The  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  was  extended 
through  the  southern  country,  and  the  California  and  Oregon  completed,  thus  bringing  San 
Francisco  in  close  connection  with  the  South,  North  and  East;  also  various  other  roads  extending 
to  all  parts  of  the  State,  and  steamship  lines  to  all  coast  and  foreign  ports,  with  San  Francisco  as 
the  headquarters  and  centre. 


NOTABLE  EVENTS . 


1542  California  discovered,  by  Jose  R.  Cabrlllo. 

1579  Sir  Francis  Drake  entered  a  bay  a  few  miles  from  Golden  Gate,  now  named  Drake's  Bay. 
1769  San   Francisco   Bay   discovered   by  Spaniards.     The   First   permanent  white   settlement 
( Spanish) . 

1778  The  Golden  Gate  first  entered,  August  the  18th.     Mission  Dolores  established.     The  first 

Indian  converted. 

1822  Mexico  ruled  California  from  1822  until  1848. 

1833  J.  P.  Leese,  first  American  settler  in  San  Francisco,  native  of  Ohio. 
1835  W.  A.  Richardson  establlahed  the  first  business  house. 

1848  American  conquest  of  California,  July  7th.    American  Flag  hoisted  on  Portsmouth  Square, 
July  8th,  by  Capt.  Montgomery,  of  the  war  sloop  Portsmouth. 

1847  The  first  newspaper  published,  January  the  9th.     Name  of  the  city  changed  from  Yerba 

Buena  to  San  Francisco,  January  30th.     Population  of  San  Francisco,  469. 

1848  Gold  discovered  by  James  W.  Marshall,  January  19th. 

1849  The  first  steamer  arrived,  February  28th,  from  New  York.    First  wharf  built,  foot  of  Com- 

mercial street,  from  Montgomery.  The  first  great  fire,  December  21th;  loss  $1,000,000  . 
Lumber  was  worth  $100  per  1,000  feet. 

1850  California  admitted   into  the    Union   as  a  State,    Society  of  California  Pioneers  organized. 

May  1st,  the  first  municipal   government  went  Into  power.      The  second  great  fire,  May 

4th;   loss,  $3,000,000.     The  third  great  fire,  June  14th;   loss  over  $3,000,000. 
1850-51  The  dryest  season,  only  1%  inches  of  rain. 

1851  The  first  execution  ;  James   Stewart,  murderer  and  robber,  tried,  found  guilty,  and  hanged 

the  same  day.  The  fourth  great  fire,  May  4th;  loss  $7,000.000.  The  fifth  and  last  great 
fire,  June  22d;  loss  $2,000.000.  First  foundry  established,  by  the  late  Peter  Donahue, 
Esq. 

1852  The  most  extreme  heat,  September  10  and  llth,  when  mercury  stood  at  97°.    Slight  snow 

'storm. 

1853  Wood  was  worth  $15  per  cord.    Coal  was  worth  $50  per  ton. 

1854  The  coldest  day  in  January,  when  mercury  fell  to  25*.     The  city  first  lighted  with  coal  gas, 

February  llth,  the  price  being  $15  per  1,000  leet.     Meats  of  most  kinds  were  worth  as 
high  as  40  cents  per  pound. 
1858  December  29th,  snow  fell  to  nearly  three  inches. 

1860  July  4th,  the  first  street  railway  put  in  operation. 

1861  Trans-Continental  Telegraph  Line  put  in  operation.   Steamship  communication  established 

with  Hawaiian  Islands. 

1862  The  greatest  amount  af  rain  in  one  month,  18  inches  in  January. 

1865  Fire  alarm  and  police  telegraph  system  established,  April  24th. 

1866  The  paid  Fire  Department  organized,  December  3d. 

1867  Steamship  communicatiou  established  to  China  and  Japan. 
1867-68  The  heaviest  rain  in  one  season,  40  inches. 

1868  The  severest  earthquake  known  to  the  city,  October  21st. 

1869  Railroad  completed  across  the  continent.     Steamship  communication  established  to  New 

Zealand  and  Australia. 
1873  The  first  cable  line  put  in  operation. 

1875  The  organization  of  the  Fire  Patrol  effected.     Palace  Hotel  completed. 
1887  The  most  notable  snowstorm  ;  snow  fell  to  the  depth  of  6  to  8  inches,  but  melted  away  in  a 

short  time — February  5th. 


[    15    ] 
HISTORY  OF  THE  CHINESE  QUARTER. 


As  I  have  shown  the  growth  of  this  city  from  early  settlement,  and  as  visitors  do  not 
fail  to  visit  Chinatown,  or  the  Flowery  Kingdom  of  America,  I  will  give  a  brief  sketch  from  the 
time  of  the  first  settlement  of  the  Mongolians  in  this  city,  in  1849.  When  the  Chinese,  who 
found  their  way  to  California  in  early  days,  located  in  San  Francisco,  the  locality  occupied  by 
them  was  commonly  called  « Little  China."  There  was  not  then  a  person  who  dreamed  to 
what  extent  it  would  grow,  located  as  it  was  in  the  center  of  the  town,  and  then  hardly 
noticeable.  The  rapid  increase  in  their  numbers  soon  extended  their  quarters  upon  the 
neighborhood  occupied  by  the  white  race,  and  year  after  year  they  increased  until  they  had 
driven  commercial  occupants  from  their  places  of  business,  and  secured  the  vacated  stores' 
Christians  abandoned  their  churches  to  the  heathen  horde.  Homes  and  dwellings  thereabout 
were  left  untenanted,  the  occupants  being  unable  to  live  in  the  polluted  atmosphere.  For  a 
number  of  years  they  were  contented  in  two  blocks,  bounded  by  Stockton  and  Dupont,  but 
within  a  few  years  they  crossed  this  boundary  line,  and  took  possession  of  the  buildings  on 
streets  once  the  most  fashionable  part  of  the  city,  to  the  extent  of  fully  ten  blocks,  bounded 
by  California,  Pacific,  Kearny  and  Stockton. 

The  Globe  Hotel  Building,  corner  Dupont  and  Jackson,  which  was  opened  as  the  principal 
first-class  hotel  in  1860,  and  at  the  time  gave  accommodation  to  about  300  guests,  is  now  inhabited 
by  about  2,000  Mongolians.  In  that  vicinity  were  also  many  business  establishments,  and 
for  some  years  property  commanded  the  highest  price.  All  residents  were  forced  to  leave 
places  of  business  and  homes  which  they  had  built  at  great  cost.  As  one  place  after  another 
was  vacated,  it  was  seized  by  the  Chinese.  The  alleys  and  small  side  streets  were  soon  filled 
with  the  lowest  of  female  slaves,  who  at  one  time  comported  themselves  in  such  a  manner  that 
they  shocked  all  who  had  to  walk  up  the  main  streets  to  reach  their  homes.  In  course  of 
time  the  Chinese  pest  assumed  such  vast  proportions  that  the  majority  of  the  respectable 
citizens  moved,  and  the  houses  they  had  occupied  were  for  a  time  the  abiding  places  of  immoral 
white  women.  Even  they  could  not  stand  the  nuisance,  and  gradually  have  been  driven  to 
other  quarters.  The  style  of  living  of  this  race  is  by  no  means  traced  by  views  herein  contained, 
as  they  live  in  cellar  ^uder  ground,  as  well  as  over  roofs.  Their  buildings  are  made  more 
capacious  by  the  construction  of  rude  balconies,  that  almost  overhang  the  narrow  streets.  The 
most  interesting  objects  to  be  seen  in  these  quarters  are  stores,  joss-houses,  restaurants,  theatres, 
work  shops,  etc.,  which  can  be  visited  with  safety  during *he  day.  To  those  who  wish  to  visit 

the  most  noted  haunts,  which  present  their  peculiar  points  best  late  at  night,  it  is  advisable  to 
hire  one  of  the  numerous  private  detectives  for  a  guide. 

The  opium  «iens  are  reached  through  dark,  narrow  hallways,  and  are  worthy  of  a  stranger's 
visit.  Here  many  Celest  als  retire  when  their  working  hours  are  over.  These  houses  or  rooms 
are  lined  on  all  sK-»-  with  wood  bunks  or  shelves,  accommodating  as  many  as  can  find  a 
reclining  position,  liieir  heads  resting  on  a  wood  box,  or  some  cast-off  garment.  Their  night 
dress  is  the  same  six  worn  during  the  day,  and  a  few  short  whiffs  from  their  pipes  of  the  poisonous 
drug  brings  on  a  pleasant  stupor.  This  habit  once  formed  is  never  given  up,  and  a  few  years 
will  wreck  the  strongest  constitution. 


Those  who  do  their  own  cooking  do  it  in  an  open  grate,  and  in  most  cases  in  the  middle  of 
Vhe  floor.  Others  live  in  cheap  eating  houses,  furnishing  meals  at  about  10  cents  a  day. 

The  Chinese  six  companies,  which  all  have  heard  more  or  less  about,  is  an  organization 
\i'hlch  is  almost  absolute  for  all  purposes  of  government,  making  and  enforcing  contracts  for 
l:ibor,  settling  disputes,  etc.  It  is  stated  that  they  go  as  far  as  to  remove  by  hired  assassins, 
li  ho  are  termed  highbinders,  those  who  are  not  agreeable  to  the  organizations.  They  universally 
deny  this,  however.  That  there  is  considerable  mystery  attached  to  them  cannot  be  denied, 
aud  it  is  significant  that  all  but  a  very  limited  number  belong  to  one  of  these  six  companies. 

OLD  CITY  HALL. 

It  is  situated  on  the  south-east  corner  of  Kearny  and  Washington  streets,  opposite  Ports- 
mouth Square,  noted  as  being  the  place  where  the  Stars  and  Stripes  were  hoisted  in  commemo- 
ration of  the  newly  acqui  red  territory  from  Mexico,  on  July  8th,  1846,  and  it  is  one  of  the  first 
large  buildings  erected  in  the  Pioneer  days  of  the  city,  and  remains  a  standing  monument  of  the 
illy  conceived  structures  of  the  times.  It  still  retains  the  following  muncipal  officers  :  Sneriff, 
Chief  of  Police,  Police  Commissioners,  Police  Court,  and  several  branches  of  the  Superior 
Courts. 

NEW  CITY  HALL. 


Located  on  the  triangular  plot  bounded  by  Larkin  and  McAllister  streets,  and  Park  avenue, 
it  will  be  one  of  the  largest  municpal  edifices  in  the  United  States  when  completed,  as  well  as 
one  of  the  most  durable  of  its  kind.  The  main  building  consists  of  a  series  of  pavilions, 
ndorned  with  Corinthian  pilasters  and  colums,  48  feet  in  height.  At  each  end  of  the  principal 
fronts,  is  one  of  these  pavilions,  and  in  the  centre  is  the  almost  semi-circular  portico,  which 
forms  the  entrance  from  Park  avenue.  The  structure  will  have  a  frontage  of  560  feet  on  Larkiu 
street,  and  650  feet  on  McAllister  street.  On  the  main  front  is  a  portico  of  122  feet,  surmounted 
with  a  tower  150  feet  high.  From  each  end  of  the  McAllister  street  side,  will  project  wings  HO 
feet  in  length,  inclosing  three  fronts  in  an  oblong  square.  The  tower  over  the.maln  hall  will  be 
270  feet  high,  by  70  feet  in  diameter.  The  entrance  on  Market  street,  via  City  Hall  avenue, 
leads  directly  to  a  circular  hall,  105  feet  high  and  80  feet  in  diameter.  The  numerous  corridors 
lead  hence  to  various  offices  and  halls.  The  basement,  12 i^  feet  high,  will  be  used  as  Police 
Headquarters  and  City  Prison. 

It  is  estimated  that  the  cost  of  this  City  Hall  will  be  $6,000,000  when  completed. 

The  Hall  of  Records  is  situated  on  one  of  the  triangular  corners  of  McAllister  street  and  Park 
avenue;  it  is  a  circular  edifice  95  feet  in  diameter,  surmounted  by  a  dome  135  feet  high.  The 
plans  contemplate  a  wide  arcade  surrounding  the  hall,  rising  to  the  level  of  the  first  story, 
which  also  connects  it,  by  an  open  arcade,  with  the  City  Hall. 

PUBLIC  PAKKS. 


There  are  in  this  city  21  public  parks  and  squares,  varying  in  size  from  200  feet  square 
to  1,013  acres,  of  which  Golden  Gate  Park  is  the  greatest.  It  is  located  in  the  south-western 
portion  of  the  city,  bordering  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  adorned  with  seven  lakelets,  arbors,  grottoes, 
mounts,  rustic  benches,  monuments,  music  pavilion,  grand  walks  and  drive-ways,  adorned  with 
lawns,  beds  of  flowers  in  bloom  the  year  round,  and  above  all  the  grand  conservatory,  located 
within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  main  entrance,  and  which  is  constructed  entirely  of  glass  and 
iron,  250  teet  long,  by  60  Jeet  wide,  and  surmounted  by  a  dome  58  feet  high.  The  Inside  space 
is  unbroken  by  any  trusses  or  girders,  the  roof  and  dome  being  supported  and  sustained  entirely 


r  17  ] 

by  being  connected  with  the  external  walls.  In  the  dome,  the  bright  glare  of  the  continuous 
crystal  is  relieved  by  lines  of  glass  in  variegated  colors.  In  front  of  the  main  building  is  a 
reception  room  20  feet  square,  through  which  visitors  enter  to  various  departments.  This  room 
is  ornamented  with  a  tasty  and  unique  fountain:  the  design  being  a  swan,  surrounded  by 
magnolias,  upholding  a  bowl  in  which  a  mermaid  rises,  holding  on  her  shoulder  a  sea-shell  in 
which  the  fountain  plays.  In  the  rear  of  the  east  wing  is  located  a  giass  house,  50  by  12  feet, 
containing  two  propagating  beds,  and  in  the  rear  of  the  west  wing  lies  auother  structure,  35  by 
25  feet,  containing  two  nurseries. 

The  main  building  contains  26,000  square  feet  of  glass,  weighing  35  tons.  It  is  a  marvel  of 
architectural  beauty,  surpassing  in  this  respect  any  similar  one.  The  fine  drives  of  miles 
through  the  park  to  the  Cliff  House  and  Sutro  Heights,  are  all  that  could  be  desired. 

BAY  OF  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


The  harbor  is  one  of  the  best  in  the  world,  without  exception. 

The  Golden  Gate  forms  a  natural  entrance  to  the  bay  and  its  fortifications  were  once  thought 
invincible.  It  is  one  mile  in  width.  Fort  Point  is  located  on  the  south-western  shore,  a  distance 
of  four  miles  from  the  City  Hall,  and  its  fortifications  are  in  keeping  with  those  of  Fort  Alcatrziz, 
situated  on  an  island  two  miles  east,  both  commanding  the  entrance  to  the  bay.  Directly  in 
front  of  the  city  lies  Goat  Island,  which  is  about  one  mile  long. 

With  natural  advantages,  together  with  her  easy  methods  of  communication  by  rail  and 
water  with  the  interior,  San  Francisco  enjoys  a  monopoly  of  the  Pacific  trade;  vessels  and 
steamship  lines  stretch  out  in  all  directions  to  foreign  and  coast  ports. 

The  bay,  including  those  of  Suisun  and  San  Pablo,  which  are  subdivided,  has  an  area  of  400 
square  miles,  of  which  350  miles  are  navigable. 

CLIMATE  OF  SAN  FKANCISCO. 


The  conditions  of  location  and  climate  insure  to  this  city  a  higher  degree  of  health  and 
exemption  from  known  epidemics,  than  is  vouchsafed  to  most  other  large  cities  of  the  world. 
Situated  upon  a  rocky  and  hilly  peninsula,  with  the  broad  Pacific  Ocean  and  Golden  Gate  on 
the  west,  and  the  capacious  bay  on  the  north  and  east,  with  its  swiftly  flowing  tides,  keep  its 
surrounding  waters  clear  and  pure,  while  the  prevailing  winds  during  the  dry  summer  sweep 
the  entire  ocean,  bringing  the  elements  of  health  uncontatniuated  by  the  malaria  of  dying 
vegetation,  or  the  miasmatic  poisons  of  inhabited  lands. 

Nature  having  thus  provided,  it  has  been  an  easy  matter  to  preserve  a  low  rate  of  mortality. 

The  temperature  of  this  city  has  few,  if  any  equals  the  year  round.  No  extreme  heat  or 
cold,  so  common  in  other  cities,  is  ever  experienced.  Rotary  storms,  hurricanes  and  cyclones 
do  not  occur  on  this  coast.  The  mean  temperature  is  about  57  the  year  round,  it  being  but 
little  colder  in  winter  than  summer.  Warm  west  and  south-west  winds  prevail  in  the  summer; 
south-east  and  northern  winds  in  winter;  the  trade  winds  and  fogs  being  the  most  unpleasant 
to  strangers.  The  spring,  summer  and  autumn  months  are  really  most  delightful;  the  winter, 
which  is  the  rainy  season,  being  less  so. 

CHURCHES. 


For  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  public,  San  Francisco  is  no  doubt  as  well  provided  as  any  of 
her  sister  cities,  as  there  are  142  churches  and  chapels  for  devotions,  of  various  denominations, 
of  which  there  are  23  Roman  Catholic,  21  Presbyterian,  16  Methodist,  11  Baptist,  12  Episcopal, 
19  Congregational,  8  Evangelical  Lutheran,  7  Hebrew  and  24  miscellaneous;  also  7  Chinese, 


under  maintenance  of  Presbyterian,  Methodist,  Congregational  and  Baptist  churches.  The 
good  that  is  attained  by  teaching  the  Chinese,  is  a  matter  of  opinion.  Some  of  the  various 
denominations  have  very  costly  and  elaborate  structures.  The  Mission  Dolores  is  worthy  of 
special  notice,  as  being  the  most  ancient  and  important  historical  monument  of  the  city; 
dedicated  on  the  9th  of  October,  1776,  although  projected  in  1769,  by  Father  Junipero  Serra,  the 
founder  of  the  California  Mission.  The  first  Indian  convert  was  baptized  on  the  27th  day  of 
December,  1776.  A  cemetery  is  attached  to  the  church,  in  which  the  first  interment  was  made, 
in  September  of  the  same  year.  The  growth  of  the  vicinity  has  over  crowded  the  old  edifice.  To 
meet  with  the  increase,  a  new  church  was  constiucted  in  1885,  by  its  side,  as  will  be  seen 
herein. 

SCHOOLS  AND  COLLEGES. 


The  residents  of  this  city  may  be  proud  of  their  school  system.  Beginning  iu  1849,  with  less 
than  100  pupils,  in  a  primitive  structure,  the  rapid  increase  in  numbers  rendered  necessary  the 
erection  of  substantial  public  school  houses,  and  to-day  the  total  number  of  pupils  enrolled 
numbers  70,000.  In  addition  to  the  system  of  day  school  instruction,  there  are  night  schools, 
four  in  number,  for  the  benefit  of  those  not  able  to  attend  during  the  day,  and  which  are  well 
attended  by  over  3,000  pupils;  these  are  continued  for  ten  months  of  the  year. 

Notwithstanding  the  excellence  of  the  free  public  schools,  there  are  about  100  private 
schools  and  colleges  of  great  wealth,  popularity,  importance  and  prosperity,  with  enrolled 
pupils  numbering  fully  10,000,  occupying  edifices  of  great  capacity  and  grand  architectural 
appearance. 

KINDERGARTEN  SCHOOLS. 

The  system  of  Kindergarten  Schools  was  organized  in  1878,  lor  educating  and  training 
children  between  the  ages  of  2%  and  6  years.  They  are  maintained  by  private  subscriptions 
and  voluntary  contributions;  there  are  32  in  a  flourishing  condition,  with  over  2,000  children 
enrolled,  and  constantly  increasing  in  numbers. 

FEEE  PUBLIC  LIBRARY. 


Located  in  the  New  City  Hall.  This  institution  was  organized  under  an  act  ol  the  Legisla- 
ture, in  1877,  empowering  the  Board  of  Supervisors  to  levy  a  tax  of  not  exceeding  one  mill  on 
the  dollar  for  support.  The  library  was  opened  to  the  public  in  June,  1879,  with  about  6,000 
volumes,  and  a  newspaper  department,  containing  daily  and  weekly  papers  from  all  cities  and 
counties  of  the  States,  and  Territories  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  Since  its  establishment  it  has 
materially  improved  in  all  departments,  and  its  facilities  have  greatly  increased.  The  library 
contains  about  7,000  volumes,  and  new  books  are  being  added  continually.  Under  specified 
regulations,  it  is  free  to  the  general  public,  and  to  visitors. 

STATE  MINING  BUREAU. 


The  California  State  Mining  Bureau  was  organized  under  an  act  of  the  Legislature,  April 
16th,  1880.  Its  location  is  on  the  entire  upper  floor  of  the  new  Pioneers'  building,  Fourth  street, 
below  Market,  where  spacious  departments  have  been  fitted  up  for  the  reception  and  preserva- 
tion of  specimens.  The  main  object  of  this  institution,  as  its  name  implies,  is  the  development 
and  fostering  of  the  mineral  resources  of  the  State,  by  the  collection  of  all  geological  and 
mineralogical  substances,  including  mineral  waters  of  this  State.  If,  possesses  economic  and 


[    19    ] 

commercial  value,  and  an  interesting  museum  of  a  miscellaneous  character.  It  also  contains  an 
extensive  library,  referring  to  geological  and  mineralogical  substances,  in  a  separate  department 
open  free  to  the  public  dally,  from  10  A.M.  to  5  P.M. 

UNITED  STATES  SUB-TEEASUEY. 


A  substantial  structure  of  four  stories,  built  of  pressed  brick,  laid  on  granite  sills,  for  which 
was  appropriated  $107,000,  is  located  on  Commercial  street,  above  Montgomery.  The  building 
has  been  occupied  by  the  department  since  October  8th,  1877,  as  the  Sub-Treasury  on  the  first 
floor,  the  Register  and  Receiver  of  the  General  Land  Office  on  the  second  floor,  and  the  United 
States  Surveyor-General's  Department  ill  the  third  and  fourth  stories. 

UNITED  STATES  APPEAISEES'  BUILDING. 


The  United  States  Appraisers'  Bnilding  occupies  the  space  bounded  by  Washington, 
Jackson  and  Sansome  streets,  and  Post  Office  Place.  It  is  a  solid,  handsome  four  story,  of 
pressed  brick,  granite  finish.  The  structure  is  265%  feet  on  Sansome  street,  by  102%  feet 
on  Jackson  and  Washington  streets.  The  cost  of  this  building  was  $1,050,000.  It  is 
occupied  by  the  Collector  of  Internal  Revenue,  Superintending  Surgeon  of  the  Marine 
Hospital,  Special  Agent  of  the  Treasury  Department,  the  Naval  Pay  Office,  the  Secret 
Service  Division,  United  States  Revenue  Marine,  Steamboat  Inspectors,  the  Appraisers' 
Department,  Coast  Survey,  United  States  District  and  Circuit  Courts,  United  States  Marshal, 
District  Attorney,  and  Law  Library. 

PEESIDIO  OF  SAN  FEANCISCO. 


The  Presidio  of  San  Francisco,  the  location  of  a  portion  of  the  United  States  troops,  ia 
one  of  the  oldest  settlements  on  S*n  Francisco  Bay,  having  been  first  occupied  by  Spanish 
troops,  acting  as  escort  to  the  priests  who  came  to  establish  the  Mission  Dolores  in  June, 
1776. 

For  three-quarters  of  a  century  it  was  the  military  headquarter!  of  Spanish  and  Mexican 
troops,  and  until  the  occupation  of  California  by  the  United  States.  Its  boundaries  were 
then  extended,  and  to-day  the  Presidio  is  one  of  the  most  valuable,  as  well  as  the  most 
healthful  military  reservations  our  government  possesses.  It  is  distant  three  miles  from 
the  old  City  Hall,  one-half  mile  from  Fort  Point,  and  about  the  same  distance  from  Black 
Point,  or  Fort  Mason,  the  Headquarters  of  the  Commanding  General  of  this  Department. 
It  is  reached  by  the  Presidio  and  Ferries  street  railroad,  as  well  as  by  a  good  wagon  road. 

UNITED  STATES  BEANCH  MINT. 


Established  in  1854,  and  until  1873  on  Commercial  street,  above  Montgomery,  upon 
the  site  now  occupied  by  the  United  States  Sub-Treasury.  The  present  substantial  building, 
a  view  of  which  is  herein  contained,  was  erected  with  improved  facilities  to  meet  the 


t    20    ] 

increased  demand  for  coinage  in  1873.  Conveniently  situated  on  the  south-west  corner  of 
Mission  and  Fifth  streets,  it  is  mo  t  elegant  and  imposing  in  appearance,  is  built  of  granite 
and  pand  stone;  has  a  frontage  of  162^£  fett  on  Mission  by  216%  feet  on  Fifth  street.  It  is 
two  stories  high  with  ample  basement.  The  parapet  walls  are  56  feet  high;  pediment  75 
feet,  with  two  chimneys,  each  142  ieet.  The  massive  fluted  columns  at  the  main  entrance 
on  Fifth  street,  give  the  structure  an  air  of  beauty  and  strength.  The  highest  capacity  of 
coinage  was  shown  in  1878— $50,186,500.  The  coinage  for  the  past  year  was,  $23,290,000 
gold  coin,  $2,216,445  silver  coin;  total,  $25,606,445.  The  total  coinage  since  1854  has  been 
as  follows:  Gold,  $114,023,357;  silver,  $113,520,797.  The  refining  department  has  a 
capacity  of  1,000,000  ounces  per  month.  Visitors  are  admitted  and  shown  through  the 
entire  works  from  9  to  11:30  A.M.,  in  squads  of  about  ten,  by  an  assistant,  who  explains  the 
workings  of  the  various  departments.  At  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  reception  room  for 
visitors  to  await  their  turn.  If  the  assistant  is  not  at  hand  to  show  them  through,  a  very 
rare  selection  of  coins,  which  is  the  property  of  the  Pioneers  of  California,  can  be 
examiu  d. 

POST  OFFICE. 


Situated  on  the  east  half  of  block  bounded  by  Washington,  Jackson,  Battery  and 
Sansome  streets;  main  entrance  on  Washington  street.  Like  other  buildings  erected  in  the 
early  stages  of  the  city,  it  has  been  left  in  the  rear  with  the  rapid  increase,  and  is  entirely 
inadequate  to  the  service  of  the  department,  and  the  only  effectual  relief  accomplished,  has 
been  through  the  establishment  of  various  branch  offices.  The  growing  population,  as  well 
as  the  dignity  of  the  city,  demands  that  a  building  suitable  to  and  commensurate  with  the 
magnitude  of  the  mail  service  shall  no  longer  be  withheld  from  us. 

THE  METROPOLITAN  PRESS. 


The  daily  and  weekly  Journals  of  the  city  are  comparatively  well  equipped,  with  large 
circulations,  of  which  there  are  morning  dailies,  as  follows  :  Chronicle,  Call,  Examiner,  Alia 
California,  Demokrat  (German),  of  which  all  publish  a  special  weekly  edition;  there  are 
also  four  evening  dailies,  except  Sundays,  as  follows  :  Bulletin,  Pust,  Report,  and  Abend  Post 
(German),  all  publishing  a  special  weekly  edition. 

Conspicuous  among  the  leading  literary  weeklies,  are  The  Argonaut,  remarkable  for  the 
vigor  of  its  editorials  ;  The,  News  Letter,  for  the  wit  and  pungency  of  its  paragraphs ;  The 
Wasp,  for  its  humorous  illustrations  and  satire. 

There  are  a  hundred  or  more  publications,  too  numerous  to  mention,  more  or  less 
worthy  of  notice. 

MECHANICS'    INSTITUTE. 


This  is  one  of  our  local  institutions  from  which  the  public  receive  annually  much  enter- 
tainment as  well  as  instruction.  It  was  organized  March  1st,  1885,  and  has  been  active  and 
enterprising  in  the  development  of  the  industries  of  the  city  and  State.  The  Pavilion  is  a 
mammoth  structure,  situated  on  Larkin  street,  near  Market,  opposite  the  New  City  Hall, 
in  which  the  In  ustrial  Exhibitions  are  held  annually,  and  never  fail  to  draw  out  a  magnifi- 


t    21    ] 

cent  display  of  the  manufacturing  and  agricultural  products  of  this  State,  tosether  with 
samples  of  skill  and  industry  of  artists,  merchants,  mechanics  and  inventors  of  this  city  and 
State. 

The  headquarters  are  tocated  at  31  Post  street,  in  a  very  neatly  constructed  three  story 
building.  There  is  a  reading  room,  well  supplied  with  the  leading  scientific  and  literary 
periodicals  of  the  times  ;  a  valuable  library  of  about  45,000  volumes.  Its  membership  is 
about  5,000. 

SAN  FRANCISCO  STOCK  EXCHANGE. 


This  was  organized  September  llth,  1862.  The  building,  owned  and  occupied  by  the 
board,  is  a  very  handsome  and  commodious  structure,  built  of  granite,  and  situated  on  Pine 
street,  below  Montgomery.  The  masonry  of  the  building  is  substantial,  and  its  architecture 
unsurpassed,  as  shown  herein;  elegantly  furnished  and  admirably  adapted  in  every  way  for 
its  purposes.  The  first  floor  has  seats  for  over  100  brokers,  and  for  about  1,250  spectators. 
The  floor  is  about  75  feet  square,  where  a  few  yeara  ago  the  bulls  and  bears  hugged  each 
other  and  rolled  over  in  the  wildest  delight,  or  deepest  dejection,  as  stocks  went  up  and 
down.  Stocks  have  been  the  ruin  of  thousands,  while  few  reaped  the  harvest.  The 
business  now  does  not  compare  with  former  years,  though  it  rests  upon  a  far  more  satis- 
factory basis. 

THE  MERCHANTS  EXCHANGE. 

Was  incorporated  under  an  act  of  the  Legislature,  March  31st,  1866,  for  the  purpose  of 
providing  a  central,  commercial  and  maritime  exchange  for  the  acquirement,  preservation 
and  dissemination  of  valuable  information,  and  for  the  promotion  of  the  interests  of  trade 
and  commerce.  The  handsome  building,  as  contained  herein,  is  situated  on  California 
street,  below  Montgomery,  and  was  erected  in  1868. 

MANUFACTURING  INDUSTRIES. 


The  progress  of  manufacturing  is  exhibited  in  so  clear  a  rnanne*,  that  many  of  our 
moneyed  men  have  begun  to  realize  that  there  is  a  chance  for  capital  to  make  good  earnings 
in  other  ways  than  speculation.  As  in  the  old-time  way,  there  were  not  a  few  who  were  im- 
pressed with  the  idea  that  the  only  proper  mode  to  invest  money  was  at  two  per  cent,  per 
month,  on  collateral  security.  They  have  had  time  to  learn  that  there  is  something  else  to  be 
done  beside  note-shaving,  and  so  little  chance  to  shave  notes  lately,  that  they  are  becoming 
useful  members  to  the  country  at  large,  instead  of  drones.  They  not  only  provide  capital, 
but  set  their  brains  to  thinking  how  it  may  be  profitably  used.  If  it  were  not  for  this  state 
of  affairs,  we  would  be  going  on  in  our  old  ways  of  importing  everything  in  the  manufactured 
article  line,  but  as  it  is,  we  are  gradually  but  surely  attaining  independence  of  the  outside 
world.  There  have  been  many  lessons  Iparned  within  the  past  few  years,  and  more  are  yet 
to  be  learned,  with  regard  to  local  manufacturing  industries.  In  the  first  place,  it  has  to 
some  extent  brought  about  the  conviction  in  an  astonishing  degree,  that  Eastern  prices 
must  sooner  or  later  rule  in  the  West.  At  present  San  Francisco  is  the  sufferer  from  being 
in  a  transition  state.  High  wages  still  prevail  largely,  while  profits  are  gradually  but 
steadily  growing  less.  When  the  leveling  process  has  been  completed,  the  western  manu- 
facturers will  be  in  a  much  better  position  as  competitors  than  they  are  at  present.  In  the 


[    22    ] 

next  place,  it  seems  that  the  transportation  companies  have  discriminated  against  home 
mannfacturers.  However,  this  evil  is  passing  away,  and  the  lines  have  displayed  a  novel 
and  pleasing  conciliatory  spirit  in  dealing  with  shippers.  Though  the  profits  have  been 
small,  business  by  no  means  has  been  stagnant.  Local  factories  are  constantly  springing  up, 
and  the  various  departments  that  follow  here  below,  do  by  no  means  represent  the  entire 
list  of  our  local  manufacturers.  Among  the  principal  and  most  extensive  are:  Cracker- 
baking,  Stoves,  Cigars,  Glass  Cutting  and  Staining,  Silk,  Wool,  Wine,  Varnish,  Saws,  Show- 
cases, Machinery,  Clothing,  Shirts,  Harness,  Jewelry,  Shoes,  Boiler- work,  Brass  and  Iron 
Foundries,  Bags,  Rope,  Tinware,  Soap,  Sugar  Refining,  Building  Material,  Barrels,  Wire, 
Book  Binding,  etc. 

It  is  a  difficult  matter  to  place  the  exact  figures  of  number  of  employees  in  our  various 
factories,  but  a  close  figure  of  35,000  will  not  exaggerate,  to  whom  are  paid  annually, 
approximataly,  $25,000,000  for  services.  The  ware  merchandise  manufactured  in  this  city 
is  closely  estimated  for  the  past  year  to  the  amount  of  $120,000,000. 

Laundry  business  is  extensively  carried  on  in  this  city,  there  being  about  2,500  men, 
women  and  girls  employed,  of  which  fully  two-thirds  are  Chinamen. 

POPULATION  AND  GROWTH  OF  SAN  FKANCISCO  . 


The  following  figures  will  show  the  growth  of  the  city  since  1847  :  1847,  459;  1850, 
31,176|  1860,  56,802;  1870,  149,473;  1880,  233,950;  1889  (estimated),  325,000. 

Of  Chinese,  whom  it  is  impossible  to  closely  estimate  in  numbers,  there  are  from  50,000 
to  60,000  within  the  city  limits. 

COMMERCIAL  AND  SAVINGS  BANKS  . 


This  city  contains  18  commercial  banks  of  undoubted  responsibility,  and  the  highest 
reputation,  of  which  10  are  regularly  incorporated  under  the  laws  of  the  State,  with  a  paid- 
up  capital  of  $22,500,000. 

San  Francisco  Savings  Banks,  of  which  there  are  eight,  with  resources  of  $67,389,694, 
declared  a  dividend  of  nearly  $2,000,000  this  past  year. 

FINANCIAL  CONDITION  OF  THE  CITY  AND  COUNTY  IN  1888-9 . 


Funded  debt  at  6  and  7  per  cent,  interest,  $1,457,526. 

Value  of  property  owned  by  the  city  and  county  in  1883 :  Real  estate  and  other 
improvements,  $227,550,750. 

City  and  county  expenses  in  1888-89,  $3,895,545,33. 

City  and  county  Licenses— 51,492  issued  ;  value  $465,389,30. 

Poll  taxes— 29,921  issued,  at  $2.00  each,  $59,842. 

CITY,  COUNTY  AND  STATE  TAXKS  IN  1888  9. 

For  city  and  county  purposes  (  $1.06  on  $100  valuation) $2,394,598.64 

For  State  purposes  ($0.54  on  $100  valuation)  1,050,971.49 

Total $3,445,570.13 

TAXABLE  PROPERTY. — The  following  figures  will  show  at  a  glance  the  value  of  improve- 
ments within  this  city,  of  taxable  property,  as  shown  by  the  Assessor's  statistics  since  1850: 
1851,  $13,000,000;  1855,  $35,000,000;  1860,  $30,000,000;  1865,  $82,000000;  1870  $115,- 
000,000;  1875,  $133,000,000;  1880,  $185,000,000;  1885,  $230,746,111;  1889,  $305,377,547, 
The  cause  of  the  decline  in  1860  is  stated  in  history. 


[    23    ] 
SAN  FKANCISCO  CLEARING  HOUSE  . 


Inaugurated  March  llth,  1876,  with  15  members,  and  the  number  is  constantly  increas- 
ng.  The  association  has  always  exercised  a  healthful  influence  in  financial  and  other 
prominent  objects  relating  to  the  prosperity  and  stability  of  commercial  interests  on  the 
coast.  It  has,  by  its  system  of  daily  clearances,  greatly  facilitated  the  business  of  banking, 
and  become  a  leading  factor  in  the  prevention  of  losses,  which  at  times  have  led  to  finan- 
cial disturbances.  The  operations  for  the  fiscal  year  were  to  the  amount  of  $845,092,334. 

SUTKO  HEIGHTS . 


This  famous  plat,  although  private  property,  is  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  principal 
attractions  of  the  Pacific. 

Adolph  Sutro,  Esq.,  at  his  residence  by  the  sea,  which  is  very  appropriately  named 
Sutro  heights,  is  an  enthusiastic  patron  and  promoter  of  the  higher  branches  of  learning. 

Sutro  Heights  is  an  estate  exceedingly  beautiful  for  its  situation.  Standing  upon 
the  esplanade  which  Mr.  Sutro  has  carved  from  the  native  rock  and  set  about  with  statues 
from  the  Home  of  Art  beside  the  Mediterranean,  one  can  but  harbor  the  thought  that 
intellectually,  as  well  as  otherwise,  the  course  of  empire  has  really  taken  its  way  westward, 
until  the  placid  waters  of  the  Pacific  declare  its  journey  done.  It  certainly  is  a  fitting  enter- 
prise— to  crown  a  life  of  great  activity — to  undertake,  as  Mr.  Sutro  has  done,  to  establish 
upon  the  very  cliff  of  the  ocean  a  retreat,  clad  in  the  beauties  of  trees,  shrubs,  flowering 
plants  and  enriched  by  treasures  of  art  and  literature  gathered  from  the  best  sources  of  the 
world.  It  is  the  wish  of  all  who  know  his  plans,  that  many  years  may  be  spared  him  to 
complete  his  work  and  to  enjoy  it. 

Judging  the  means  by  which  Mr.  Sutro  hopes  to  develop  and  improve  his  seaside  home, 
his  enterprise  is  little  more  than  begun,  but  viewing  it  as  a  cursory  visitor  would,  it  seems 
almost  completed,  and  most  delightful.  Certainly  during  the  past  few  years,  wonders  have 
been  accomplished  on  the  sands  which  pertain  to  such  a  peculiar  location.  There  is  now  a 
garden  of  several  acres,  which,  for  thrift  and  beauty  of  individual  plants  and  general  land- 
scape gardening  effects,  would  put  to  the  blush  many  a  site  where  the  owner  has  naturally 
rich  soil  and  suitable  shelter  for  his  allies.  More  than  this,  there  is  a  profusion  of  statuary 
art,  embodying  all  trains  of  human  thought,  from  the  magnificent  winged  Apollo,  which 
crowns  an  eminence,  and  the  stately  Minerva,  linking  the  achievements  of  intellectual 
with  joys  of  domestic  life,  down  to  the  nymphs  which  nestle  in  the  shade,  and  the  tiny 
grotesques  which  seem  to  be  gamboling  on  the  grass  plats.  It  would  be  wholly  impossible 
for  me  to  give  any  sketch  of  the  richness  or  variety  of  the  Heights  in  these  regards.  One 
could  spend  weeks  in  contemplation  of  the  masterpieces  here  brought  into  close  association 
within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  sounding  surf  of  the  Pacific.  I  have  stated  that  Mr.  Sutro  has 
only  begun  his  work.  This  is  shown  by  the  millions  of  seedling  maritime  pines,  Monterey 
pines  and  cypresses,  which  he  has  in  his  nurseries,  not  to  speak  of  the  wealth  of  the  bedding 
plants  in  the  propagating 'frames  and  plant  houses.  Suggestions  of  effect  to  come  are  also 
seen  in  the  huge  cases  of  tiles,  slabs  and  blocks  of  stone  which  he  has  brought  from  abroad  to 
weave  into  his  structures  and  out-door  improvements.  His  spacious  residence  is  overflowing 
with  rare  art  and  bric-a-brac. 

In  the  business  part  of  the  city,  Mr.  Sutro  has  a  large  collection  of  manuscripts,  and 
110,000  volumes  of  valuable  scientific  and  literary  books— a  contribution  of  inestimable 
value  to  intellectual  culture  on  this  coast.  This  rich  possession  he  proposes  to  establish  on 
Sutro  Heights,  and  thus  make  it  available  to  eager  students,  and  it  is  his  plan  to  construct 
a  fine  building,  according  to  bis  own  design,  which  will  contain  the  library  and  abundant 


C    24    ] 


room  and  conveniences  for  those  who  desire  to  pursue  studies  and  investigations.  These 
valuable  plans  of  Mr.  Sutro  in  this  direction  are  earnestly  expressed,  and  the  facilities  which 
he  is  preparing  for  scholarly  work,  will  be  regarded  with  keen  interest,  for  it  would  be  of 
inestimable  value  in  many  departments  in  our  universities,,  and  higher  educational 
institutions. 

Mr.  Sutro  extends  to  all  visitors  to  the  city,  and  the  public,  a  cordial  invitation  to  visit 
his  retreat.  Visitors  must  have  cards  of  admission,  which  are  to  be  had  free  of  charge  at 
all  principal  city  hotels,  and  the  Cliff  House,  before  entering  the  Heights,  and  of  C.  P. 
Heininger,  publisher. 

THE  CLIFF  HOUSE  AND  SEAL  ROCKS  . 


This  popular  and  far-famed  sea-side  resort  is  situated  on  the  extreme  western  limits  of 
the  city,  on  a  cliff  over  100  feet  above  the  ocean,  under  the  brow  of  the  famous  Sutro 
Heights,  commanding  a  rare  view  of  the  surrounding  country,  the  ocean  with  its  islands, 
and  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  famous  Seal  Rocks,  with  thousands  of  sea-lions  howling 
and  tumbling  in  their  sport,  as  nature  intended.  These  seals  are  a  fur-bearing  species, 
some  of  extraordinary  size.  Their  rocky  home  is  government  property.  The  Cliff 'House 
is  the  property  of  Adolph  Sutro,  Esq-.;  it  is  open  to  all  visitors,  also  to  accommodate  those 
wishing  to  spend  the  day  at  the  Heights,  etc.  There  is  an  immense  refreshment  hall  which 
occupies  over  5,000  feet,  and  numerous  private  rooms,  tastefully  fitted  up,  where  refresh- 
ments are  to  be  had  at  popular  prices.  This  favorite  resort  is  accessible  by  tine  drives 
through  Golden  Gate  Park  and  Point  Lobos  Avenue,  or  cable  lines  and  Park  Steam 
Railway. 

WOODWARD'S  GARDENS . 


These  gardens,  although  a  private  collection  of  property,  are  justly  regarded  one  of  the 
principal  attractions  as  a  pleasure  resort  of  the  city. 

Located  on  the  blocks  bounded  by  Thirteenth  and  Fifteenth,  Mission  and  Valencia 
streets,  they  are  finely  improved  and  contain  a  valuable  and  extensive  collection  of  natural 
and  antiquarian  curiosities,  wild  animals,  fossils,  and  paintings  from  all  parts  of  the  globe. 
The  amusement  department  in  the  Pavilion — Music  Hall  and  Amphitheater— where  all  the 
performances,  concerts,  balls,  festivals  and  national  celebrations  are  held,  pleases  the 
multitude,  and  cannot  be  surpassed  for  its  many  combined  attractions  by  any  similar 
institution  in  the  world. 

For  promenading,  the  gardens  are  unsurpassed,  all  the  pathways  and  lanes  leading 
around  the  numerous  ornamental  flower-beds  and  groves  of  trees  from  every  clime,  under 
which  numbers  of  rustic  seats  are  scattered  in  every  direction. 

Not  a  day  passes  but  that  something  new  is  received  from  various  parts  of  the  globe . 

The  Mission  Street  horse  cars,  and  Valencia  Street  cable  line,  pass  the  gardens. 

PIONEERS'  SOCIETY  AND  HALL  . 


A  monument  of  the  past  to  coming  generations  on  Fourth  street,  below  Market,  is  the 
building  of  the  present  and  the  past  Pioneers  of  California.  The  Pioneer  Society,  as  its 
name  implies,  is  composed  of  the  early  settlers  of  this  City  and  State,  and  comprises  those 
who  were  in  California  prior  to  the  first  day  of  January,  1850,  who  are  eligible  to  member- 
ship, or  any  person  who  has  rendered  distinguished  or  important  services  to  the  Society  or 


[     25    ] 

State  may  be  admitted  as  an  honorary  member.  The  roll  embraces  about  2,300  members. 
The  Society  was  organized  in  August,  1850.  The  expressed  object  of  the  society  is  to  collect 
and  preserve  information  connected  with  the  early  settlement  and  subsequent  conquest  of 
the  country,  and  to  perpetuate  tha  memory  of  those  whose  sagacity,  energy  and  enterprise 
induced  them  to  settle  in  the  wilderness,  and  become  the  founders  of  the  new  State.  The 
annual  election  is  held  July  7th,  the  anniversary  day  of  the  conquest  of  California,  and  the 
raising  of  the  American  flag  on  its  soil.  Annual  celebrations  are  held  September  9th,  being 
the  anniversary  of  the  admission  of  the  State  into  the  Union. 

A  generation  hence,  when  mention  shall  be  made  of  the  Pioneers  who  settled  this  State, 
more  romance  will  surround  their  names  than  to-day.  The  present  so  nearly  touches  the 
past,  that  by  an  easy  stretch  of  thought  or  imagination,  a  person  can  go  back  forty  years. 
The  toils  and  struggles,  the  hardships  and  difficulties  of  the  early  settlers,  are  pictured  more 
correctly  now  than  it  will  ever  be  possible  for  those  to  entertain,  who,  in  future  years  will 
live  to  reap  the  fruits  and  blessings  of  pioneer  enterprise.  What  they  have  accomplished 
can  be  best  judged  by  the  immense  commercial  interests  of  to-day.  The  colossal  structure 
which  is  henceforth  to  be  known  as  the  Pioneer's  Hall,  is  a  monument  to  the  success  of 
their  lives.  It  is  in  the  Venetian  style,  while  its  exterior  is  calculated  to  gratify  the  severest 
critic  of  art.  Imposing  in  appearance,  its  construction  is  massive  and  solid,  the  adornments 
novel,  rich  and  grand.  The  building  is  four  stories  in  height,  50  feet  on  Fourth  street  and 
195  feet  on  Pioneer  Place,  giving  two  distinct  fronts,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty  tower, 
built  of  marble,  sandstone  and  pressed  brick,  laid  in  with  black  mortar,  thus  showing  a  rich 
contrast. 

The  history  of  the  Pioneers  is  cleverly  told  in  terra  cotta  and  stone  panels  upon  various 
portions  of  the  exterior  walls.  The  frontier  life  is  very  strikingly  illustrated.  On  the  front 
of  the  building  are  two  large  panels  representing  the  battle  of  Mesa,  and  raising  of  the  bear 
flag  at  Sonoma  in  1846.  At  each  end,  the  panels  represent  the  seal  of  Montezuma,  the 
name  given  by  the  Spanish  settlers  to  this  province,  and  the  seal  of  California  as  afterwards 
adopted.  There  are  numerous  other  panels  and  medallions  representing  the  progress  of  the 
State,  and  the  City  of  San  Francisco.  The  Pioneers'  Seal,  on  which  is  an  ox  team,  a  hunter, 
and  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco;  public  celebrities,  both  military  and  civil;  the  discovery  of 
gold;  the  first  American  Consul.  The  dial  of  the  clock  is  surrounded  by  figures  of  Youth, 
Maturity  and  Old  Age.  Some  panels  represent  Rocky  Mountain  sheep,  buffaloes,  a  journey 
across  the  plains,  early  settlements,  etc.,  etc. 

The  entrance  to  the  hall,  on  Pioneer  Place,  is  imposing  in  its  detail;  polished  granite 
columns  surmounted  by  eagles  guarding  the  State  motto,  "Eureka."  Engraved  on  massive 
stone,  is  a  bear  of  heroic  size,  also  of  stone.  The  stained  glass  windows  and  caps  of  the 
columns,  the  many  heads  in  their  grouping  of  epochs,  and  characters  of  historic  meaning, 
render  the  entrance  striking  and  ornamental,  and  in  unity  with  the  rest  of  the  exterior  of 
the  building,  while  the  interior  is  not  in  the  least  minus  of  art.  The  meeting  room  is  76  by 
48  feet,  containing  a  gallery,  and  a  stage  for  public  speakers,  which  is  lighted  by  three  large 
reflectors  of  twenty-one  burners  each,  with  numerous  sidelights.  The  main  floor  has  chairs 
for  the  accommodation  of  1000  persons.  The  room  is  frescoed  in  simple  but  elegant  taste, 
with  a  balustrade  in  old  gold,  where  creeping  vines  climb  and  intertwine.  Flowers  and  birds 
commingle  to  please  the  eye,  relieved  above  by  a  blue  sky,  studded  with  stars,  encircling  the 
entire  ceiling. 

The  Secretary's  office  is  very  tasty  and  of  neat  design,  with  everything  required,  and 
all  the  latest  improvements  at  hand.  It  has  a  neat  fresco,  with  leaves  and  flowers  for 
decoration;  in  the  four  corners,  a  pen,  inlaid  upon  the  monogram  of  the  Pioneers,  reminds 
the  occupant  of  his  duty  and  fidelity  to  his  society. 

The  ladies'  parlor  and  reception  rooms,  off  the  main  hall,  adjoining  the  Secretary's 
office,  are  in  good  taste,  coupled  with  art  and  lavish  expenditure,  combining  to  make  these 
apartments  gems  of  style,  fitted  with  mirrors,  fire  places,  marble  mantels,  and  gas  fixtures 
not  to  be  excelled.  The  frescoing  is  of  the  most  delicate  and  dainty  kind — flowers,  grapes, 


[;          26  ] 

leaves  and  grasses  add  to  the  charm  of  variety  in  tint  and  colors.  The  ceilings  are  master- 
pieces of  the  decorator's  art.  There  are  three  panels  of  frescoing,  from  each  of  which  a 
chandelier  of  the  most  unique  model  descends,  lighting  up  the  brilliant  colors.  The  center 
panel  is  a  shield  of  the  State,  supported  by  angels,  and  angels  twining  a  garland  of  flowers. 
The  other  panels  are  of  rare  beauty,  with  their  masks,  gloves,  fans,  bouquets,  Spanish 
guitar,  lyre,  banjo  and  other  types  of  harmony,  with  the  accompanying  rich,  warm  tints  of 
blue  and  crimson,  blending  with  threads  of  gold,  trailing  garlands  of  white  and  pink  flowers, 
violets,  lilies  and  pansies  in  profusion.  Everything  on  the  walls  and  ceiling  is  of  rare  beauty 
throughout. 

The  hall-ways  are  paved  with  beautiful  styles  of  tile.  The  stair-cases  and  other  wood 
work  is  of  the  very  finest,  excellent  and  select  wood;  the  large  supporting  pillars  at  the  end 
of  each  corridor  on  each  floor,  supporting  the  immense  stairways,  are  all  of  solid  primavera 
wood,  mounted  with  California  redwood;  the  billiard,  card,  reading-room,  library  and  other 
rooms,  are  all  finished  in  the  most  elaborate  style. 

The  society  is  possessed  of  a  valuable  library  and  an  excellent  cabinet  of  minerals,  and 
relics  of  various  objects  of  interest  referring  to  early  times. 

It  would  require  almost  indefinite  space  to  describe  all  the  objects  in  this  manner;  it  is 
worth  a  journey  of  many  miles  to  see  them,  and  other  parts  of  this  monumental  structure. 

HISTORY  OF  THE  CABLE  SYSTEM. 


Tourists  and  other  visitors  to  San  Francisco  are  greatly  interested  in  the  cable  system, 
in  the  introduction  of  which  this  city  is  the  pioneer  of  the  world.  The  system  has  been 
attended  with  marked  success. 

One  of  the  principal  developments  of  mechanical  genius  in  San  Francisco,  is  the 
extensive  and  perfect  system  of  cable  street  railways,  of  which  the  Clay  street  line  was  the 
pioneer.  The  system  is  unique,  and  a  triumph  of  inventive  genius  and  engineering  skill, 
of  which  San  Francisco  has  just  cause  to  be  proud. 

While  every  city  is  seeking  to  perfect  and  cheapen  its  means  of  transit  from  business 
centers  to  suburbs,  none  have  been  found  so  effective,  cheap,  safe  and  pleasant,  as  the 
stationary  engine  and  underground  cable,  which,  traversing  hills  as  well  as  level  streets, 
forms  no  more  obstruction  than  the  ordinary  track,  noiseless  in  its  operations,  and  the  cars 
of  which  are  more  completely  under  control  than  when  drawn  by  horses.  By  this  means 
the  hilly  regions  of  the  city  are  made  as  accessible  as  the  level  portion.  Those  localities 
having  the  greatest  elevations,  are  the  most  desirable  for  dwellings,  and  on  them  many  of 
our  distinguished  residents  have  their  homes. 

The  construction  of  this  system  originally  was  regarded  as  an  experiment  of  very  doubt- 
ful character.  Attention  was  early  called  to  the  necessity  of  direct  access  to  the  western 
portion  of  the  city,  to  which  the  high,  precipitous  ridges  extended.  A  tunnel  through  the 
ridge  along  the  northern  end  was  proposed,  and  an  act  of  the  Legislature  was  passed 
authorizing  it.  For  several  years  this  was  agitated  as  the  only  feasible  means,  but  it  did 
not  appear  to  fill  the  requirements,  and  the  great  cost  forbade  capitalists  investing  in  it. 
This  would  have  left  the  elevated  portion  without  surface  rail  access,  and  it  was  fortunate 
the  tunnel  was  not  undertaken. 

B.  H.  Brooks  having  conceived  the  idea  of  an  endless  wire  cable,  laid  under  the  surface 
of  the  street,  and  operated  by  a  stationary  engine,  set  his  inventive  genius  to  work  to 
perfect  the  details.  Over  a  year  was  spent  in  planning,  draughting  and  experimenting,  he 
having  the  efficient  aid  of  skillful  engineers,  and  when  their  scheme  was  fully  prepared,  and 
as  subsequently  carried  out,  and  in  such  successful  operation,  it  was  presented  to  the  board 
of  Supervisors,  and  a  franchise  asked  for;  the  city  fathers  hesitated  long  and  investigated 
the  matter  thoroughly  before  approving  it,  and  not  until  such  engineers  as  General  Alex  - 


[    27    ] 

ander  of  the  army,  and  others,  had  assured  them  of  the  feasibility  of  the  plan,  and  safety  of 
the  operation  as  proposed,  did  they  conclude  to  allow  its  use.  Jn  1869  the  franchise  was 
granted.  The  next  difficulty  was  to  induce  capitalists  to  invest  in  the  enterprise;  so  novel 
was  the  scheme,  and  so  poor  the  prospects  of  remuneration,  that  local  capitalists  refused  to 
touch  it.  Eastern  capitalists  were  invited  to  investigate  it,  but  upon  examining  the  locality, 
seeing  the  steep  hills,  declared  it  would  never  pay,  and  consoled  the  enthusiasm  of  the 
inventor  by  admiring  the  skillfulness  of  his  plans,  but  declining  to  invest.  Thus  struggling 
along  for  several  years,  the  plans  were  transferred  to  other  parties  for  a  nominal  consider- 
tion,  a"nd  the  great  experiment  undertaken  and  completed,  and  put  in  operation  in  Septem- 
ber, 1873.  Not  only  has  it  proven  a  success,  but,  contrary  to  the  opinion  of  capitalists,  it 
has  been  lemunerative  beyond  all  systems  now  in  use.  bo  complete  and  economical  has  it 
proven,  that  others  soon  adopted  it.  To  the  traveler,  the  sensation  of  ascending  and  descend- 
ing the  steep  hills  is  most  delightful,  the  motion  beng  rapid  and  easy,  and  without  fear  of 
danger. 

OPEEATION  AND  SYSTEM. 

The  e  dless  cable  system  is  put  in  motion  by  powerful  steam  engines  located  at  a 
central  point  along  the  line.  The  wire  cable,  which  gives  the  power,  runs  around  a  large 
drum  and  pulley  in  front  of  the  engine  house  and  under  the  surface,  extending  to  each 
terminal  point  of  the  line,  and  at  which  another  drum  carries  the  cable  from  one  track  to 
the  other.  The  cable  is  run  in  large  tubes,  a  slot  immediately  over  top  of  which  allows  the 
grip  bar  to  pass  along  and  attach  to  it;  the  wire  rope  passing  over  small  pulleys  that  sustain 
it.  More  approved  plans  have  been  adopted  by  having  arms  or  ribs,  which  form  the  arch- 
way or  tunnel  in  which  the  grip  and  cable  work,  doing  away  with  the  tubes. 

The  lever,  which  is  in  charge  of  the  gripman,  furnishes  the  power  by  means  of  jaws 
taking  hold  of  the  rope  beneath  the  surface,  between  the  tracks.  The  powerful  brake, 
which  operates  upon  the  track  as  well  as  on  the  wheels,  readily  and  securely  stops  and  holds 
the  cars,  however  steep  the  grade  may  be,  thus  being  better  prepared  to  avoid  accident  *  than 
horse  cars.  This  system  of  brakes  on  the  dummy  is  under  the  control  of  the  gripman,  and 
it  is  stated  that  a  heavily  loaded  car  running  at  the  rate  of  speed  of  eight  miles  an  hour,  can 
be  stopped  within  a  space  of  ten  feet,  which  is  unexcelled  by  the  air-brakes  on  locomotives. 

CEOSSISG    CABLES. 

The  matter  of  cable  lines  crossing  each  other  puzzles  the  mind,  and  much  study  was 
bestowed  upon  it  by  the  genius  who  cleared  up  and  solved  the  problem.  There  are  a 
number  of  crossings  in  the  city  of  this  nature.  To  overcome  this,  the  first  cable  laid  has  the 
right  to  have  such  above  the  succeeding  line,  which  is  croased  without  difficulty.  The  latter 
is  placed  some  distance  under  the  crossing;  therefore  the  crossing,  or  second  line,  must  drop 
the  cable  from  the  grip  before  reaching  the  other,  and  then  pick  it  up  again  on  the  opposite 
side.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  car  must  have  been  given  sufficient  momentum  by  its  speed 
in  order  to  carry  it  across  the  street  after  the  grip  has  been  let  go  the  cable,  as  in  many 
cases  there  is  a  grade  and  some  curves,  where  it  takes  considerable  power  to  overcome  the 
required  distance. 

The  success  of  this  system  is  shown  by  the  fact  tint  there  are  now  over  70  miles  in 
successful  operation  in  this  city. 


t    28    ] 
PRESIDIO  AND  FERKIES  CABLE  LINE. 


A  more  beautiful  or  attractive  ride  can  not  be  had  over  any  cable  line  than  upon  the 
Union  street,  from  its  lower  terminus,  Washington  street  and  Montgomery  avenue,  or  from 
the  ferry  landings  by  its  branch  of  horse  cars,  connecting  with  the  cable  system  at  above 
named  points.  The  main  line  is  an  endless  cable  system  of  10,000  feet,  double  track,  and 
runs  through  the  popular  thoroughfare  of  Montgomery  avenue,  commanding  a  beautiful 
view  of  North  Beach  and  vicinity.  Thence  turning  a  short  curve  it  ascends  the  summit  of 
Union  Street  Hill,  or  a  grade  of  78  feet  in  a  distance  of  412%  feet,  where  is  located  the 
engine  house,  a  well  constructed  and  substantial  two-story  building  137%xll2  feet,  contain- 
ing two  powerful  Corliss  Engines,  of  150  horse  power  each,  boiler  room,  car  shops,  etc. 
The  time  from  the  ferry  landing  to  the  other  terminus  by  this  popular  system  is  forty 
minutes. 

SUTTEE  STREET  CABLE  LINE. 


Along  this  line  strangers  can  see  a  great  portion  of  this  city,  as  well  as  by  its  transfer 
lines.  The  present  cable  line  system  was  put  in  operation  in  1878.  The  main  line  extends 
from  Sansome  street  to  Central  avenue  and  Laurel  Hill  cemetery,  passing  through  a  fashion- 
able residence  district,  and  transfers  by  means  of  horse  cars  from  Sansome  street  to  the 
ferry  landing.  Another  branch  extends  from  Sutter  street  along  Polk  to  Pacific  street, 
where  connection  is  also  made  by  horse  car  with  the  Union  street  cable  line  for  the  Presidio. 
A  branch  t  f  its  cable  line  runs  south  from  Sutter  and  Polk  along  Lirkin  street,  crossing 
four  cable  lines,  passing  the  City  Hall  and  Mechanics'  Pavilion,  to  Brannan  street.  The 
extent  of  this  line  is  about  5%  miles  of  double  track,  of  which  fully  4%  miles  is  operated 
by  cable.  The  main  line  on  Sutter  street  is  an  endless  cable  of  13,200  feet.  The  engine 
house  is  located  on  the  corner  of  Sutter  and  Polk  streets,  and  is  a  grand  structure  of  three 
stories,  built  of  brick,  and  covering  nearly  half  a  block.  It  contains  two  engines  of  150 
horse  power;  the  boilers  are  14  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  street. 

GEARY  STREET  CABLE  LINE. 


This  line  runs  through  the  most  level  and  populous  part  of  the  city,  from  Market  and 
Kearny  streets  to  Point  Lobus  avenue,  to  its  junction  with  its  steam  dummy  line  for  Golden 
Gate  Park.  It  was  completed  and  commenced  operations  in  1880.  Its  length  of  cable  is 
13,200  feet,  in  which  distance  it  passes  over  three  elevations,  250,  282  and  225  feet,  respect- 
ively, from  its  starting  point  on  Market  street,  which  is  35  feet  above  base.  From  the  busi- 
ness portion,  through  a  thickly  populated  section,  it  runs  directly  to  the  cemeteries  of  the 
city. 

CALIFORNIA  STREET  CABLE  LINE, 


The  California  street  line  was  the  second  of  the  cable  system.  Undertaken  in  1877, 
from  the  lower  terminus,  at  California  and  Kearny  streets,  it  passes  over  elevations  of  265 
and  532  feet  above  base.  It  is  one  of  the  best  constructed  lines  in  the  city;  is  a  12,000 
feet  endless  cable  system.  It  passes  the  most  aristocratic  residence  part  of  the  city,  among 
which  are  the  mansions  of  the  railroad  and  ^mining  kings,  commonly  called  "Nob  Hill*'* 


t    29    ] 

Here  is  presented  a  panoramic  -view  of  the  west,  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  Golden  Gate. 
Taking  a  standpoint  frcm  this  hill,  looking  toward  the  north  and  east,  the  eye  rests  upon 
an  immense  bay,  beantifnl  by  a  rare  combination  of  islands  in  its  noidst,  and  affording  also 
a  view  of  the  city,  and  the  mountain  ranges  in  the  distance. 

MAEKET  STREET  CABLE  LINE  AND  PAEK  AND  BEACH  RAILROAD. 


The  Market  street  cable  railway,  the  mainline  of  which  was  put  in  operation  in  August 
1883,  is  one  of  the  most  complete  of  this  character,  The  road  has  become  historical,  from 
its  having  been  the  first  street  railroad  built  in  this  city.  It  was  first  operated  by  steam 
dummies  under  the  name  of  the  San  Francisco  Market  Street  Railroad,  and  extended  from 
the  depot,  then  at  the  junction  of  Market  and  California  streets,  along  Market  and  Valencia 
to  Seventeenth  street,  near  the  Mission.  The  opening  of  the  road  took  place  on  the  4th 
of  July  1860,  and  formed  the  most  interesting  feature  of  the  celebration  of  the  day. 

In  1862  a  branch  line  was  built  from  Market  along  Hayes  street,  to  Hayes'  Park 
Pavilion  and  Garden. 

In  1879,  the  owners  of  the  Market  street  road,  who  were  men  of  enterprise  and  great 
experience  in  railroad  building,  realized  the  importance,  not  only  of  efficient  and  reliable 
service  over  its  lines,  but  also  of  the  enlarged  accommodation  needed  by  the  people  of  this 
growing  metropolis  ;  to  reach  the  new  park  and  other  portions  of  the  Western  Addition, 
which  were  then  rapidly  filling  with  desirable  residences,  they  concluded  to  adopt  the  new 
method  of  propelling  cars  by  wire  cable,  and  to  extend  their  general  system  by  the  addition 
of  radiating  lines  from  Market  street  along  Haight  and  McAllister,  and  the  continua  tion, 
of  their  Hayes  street  line  which,  on  account  of  the  steep  grades  on  those  streets  the  cable 
method  of  propulsion  now  rendered  practicable. 

The  conversion  of  the  main  line  into  a  cable  road,  and  the  construction  of  the  addi- 
tional branch  lines,  the  erection  of  engine  houses,  where  the  motive  power  of  the  cable  is 
applied,  all  the  requisite  appliances  for  a  first-class  road  having  been  completed,  the  new 
cable  system  was  put  in  operation  in  August,  1883.  It  has  given  great  satisfaction  to  the 
traveling  public,  in  furnishing  better  appointed  cars,  and  a  more  expeditious  mode  of  transit 
than  the  old  system.  The  cars  used  on  these  lines  are  of  an  entirely  new  design.  The 
open  dummy,  or  grip  car,  being  an  extension  of  the  frame  of  the  closed  portion,  making  in 
all,  a  car  of  35  feet  in  length,  mounted  npon  two  four  wheel  trucks,  like  ordinary  steam 
passenger  cars.  They  are  spacious  and  well  ventilated,  and  the  effect  of  their  plan  of  con- 
struction is  to  make  riding  in  them  more  agreeable  to  the  passenger  than  in  the  ordinary 
street  cars. 

In  connection  with  the  cable  system,  the  owners  projected  the  construction  of  the 
Park  and  Oceau  Railroad,  a  first-class  steam  road,  extending  from  the  Haight  street 
terminus  to  the  Ocean  Beach,  Cliff  House  and  Sutro  Heights.  The  road  is  four  miles  in 
length,  and  is  run  by  powerful  dummies.  The  passenger  cars  are  of  a  much  larger 
description  than  those  in  use  on  the  street  lines,  and  are  adapted  especially  for  pleasure 
travel.  Among  the  attractions  along  these  lines,  are  the  views  of  the  principal  streets  of 
the  city,  and  ascending  the  elevations  of  the  hills,  a  panoramic  view  of  the  city  is  obtained 
until  the  Park,  Beach  and  Cliff  House  are  reached,  where  we  enjoy  the  breezes  from  the 
Pacific,  and  coast  scenery.  This  system  of  roads  which  now  embraces  17  miles  in  extent, 
is  the  outgrowth  of  a  road  which,  when  first  operated,  was  2%  miles  long.  The  time  re- 
quired for  a  trip  from  the  ferry  landing  to  the  beach  is  about  45  minutes.  In  1888,  this 
company  added  another  cable  branch  or  additional  line,  superceding  the  steam  dummy  on 
Market  street  extension,  and  traversing  Cagtro  street  to  26th. 


[     30    ] 
FERRIES  AND  CLIFF  HOUSE  RAILWAY  COMPANY. 


This  Kailroad  also  propelled  by  cable,  commenced  operations  in  1888.  It  comprises 
five  distinct  lines,  all  under  one  management,  and  each  connecting  with  and  being  a  part  of 
the  system. 

'The  main  line  moves  from  Market  Street  Ferries  along  Sacramento  street  to  Powell  and 
Jackson  streets,  and  thence  to  Central  Avenue,  where  it  transfers  passengers,  without  addi- 
tional fare,  to  a  stsam  line  which  lands  them  at  "Golden  Gate  Park.  Another  steam  line 
starts  from  the  Central  Avenue  terminus  of  the  cable,  and  runs  to  Sutro  Heights  aud  Cliff 
House,  the  route  being  most  picturesque,  passing  around  the  bluffs  north  of  the  Cliff 
House,  overlooking  the  ocean,  and  giving  an  unsurpassed  view  of  the  Golden  Gate,  and  all 
points  at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor. 

The  fourth  section  of  the  system  takes  passengers  from  the  intersection  of  Powell  and 
Market  streets  to  North  Beach,"  and  en  route  transfers  to  the  other  branch  lines. 

The  fifth  subdivision  is  a  portion  of  the  original  cable  railroad  of  the  city,  formerly 
known  as  the  Clay  Street  Hill  Kailroad  Co.,  which  uow  intersects  the  main  line  at  Clay  and 
Powell  Streets,  and  iunning  thence  to  Van  Ness  Avenne. 

This  system  of  roads  traverses  the  most  sightly  section  of  the  city,  and  from  the  highest 
points  on  Jackson  street,  a  fine  view  may  be  had  of  the  greater  portion  of  the  city  in  either 
direction. 

Thirteen  miles  of  cable  is  maintained  in  its  business,  and  ten  miles  of  steam  railroad. 
Its  equipment  is  first-class  in  every  respect, 

OMNIBUS  CABLE  COMPANY. 


The  latest  addition  to  the  city  cable  system,  and  perhaps  the  most  extensive  and 
intricate,  is  that  of  the  above  company,  and  which  comprises  about  '25  njiles  of  single  track, 
traversing  in  its  ramifications  almost  every  district  of  the  city.  The  division  south  of 
Market  street  is  moved  by  engines  at  Tenth  and  Howard  Streets,  and 'the  counterpart,  or 
western  division,  north  of  Market  struct,  by  engines  located  at  Oak  and  Broderick  streets. 

The  principal  terminal  points  are  the  Ferry,  Twenty- sixth  and  Howard  Streets,  Twenty- 
fourth  street  and  Potrero  Avenue,  Tenth  and  Howard  Streets,  Post  and  Montgomery  streets, 
ind  Golden  Gate  Park.  Connecting  with  the  cable  system  is  a  horse  line  from  North 
r^each  to  Third  and  Townsend  Streets,  with  branches  running  to  Pacific  Mail  S.  8.  Go's 
Wharf,  and  from  Market  and  Montgomery  Streets  to  the  Ferry.  Passengers  are  transferred 
to  all  connectiug  lines  for  a  given  terminus  without  extra  fares.  Those  taking  the 
cable  cars  at  the  Ferry  are  moved  to  Tenth  and  Howard,  thence  to  Fell  and  Market,  along 
Fell  to  Fninklin,  to  Oak,  to  the  Stanyan  street  terminus  at  Golden  Gate  Park.  Another 
branch  leaves  Market  and  Ellis,  along  the  latter  to  Broderick,  and  to  the  same  terminus  at  the 
Park,  fctill  another  from  Post  and  Montgomery  along  Post  and  other  intermediate  streets, 
uniting  with  the  main  line  at  Fell  and  Market,  transferring  passengers  to  Howard  Street  or 
to  the  Park. 

Space  forbids  a  more  extended  notice  at  this  time..  But  we  should  add  that  two  pairs 
of  engines  at  each  handsome  and  complete  engine  and  car  house,  having  a  capacity  of  over 
500  horse  power  each,  move  this  vast  system,  of  which  in  a  future  edition  we  shall  give  a 
more  comprehensive  and  complete  account. 


RETU 


ARROWED 


-D-9  80m  11 780  (Bay  View) 


' 


books  are  subject  to  "immediate  recall.' 


General  Library 

University  of  California 

Berkeley 


LD21A-60m-8,'70 
(N8837slO)476— A-32 


YC  28253 

•WC.   P.    H  El 


PUBLISHER     OK 


,  Hidiorieal  References  and  Guided 


-OF  AIvI,  THE- 


Principal  $oin?s*pn  the  Pacific  Coast. 


Speci 


VALF 


834858  Order. 


TIE-S 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  UBRARY 


SAX  FRANCISCO,  CAL. 


History  3u 


